Endocrine Reviews 21 (4): 363-392
Copyright © 2000 by The Endocrine Society
Role of Hormones in Pilosebaceous Unit Development
Dianne Deplewski and
Robert L. Rosenfield
Departments of Medicine and Pediatrics, The University of Chicago
Pritzker School of Medicine, Chicago, Illinois 60637-1470
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Abstract
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Androgens are required for sexual hair and sebaceous gland development.
However, pilosebaceous unit (PSU) growth and differentiation require
the interaction of androgen with numerous other biological factors. The
pattern of PSU responsiveness to androgen is determined in the embryo.
Hair follicle growth involves close reciprocal epithelial-stromal
interactions that recapitulate ontogeny; these interactions are
necessary for optimal hair growth in culture. Peroxisome
proliferator-activated receptors (PPARs) and retinoids have recently
been found to specifically affect sebaceous cell growth and
differentiation. Many other hormones such as GH, insulin-like growth
factors, insulin, glucocorticoids, estrogen, and thyroid hormone play
important roles in PSU growth and development. The biological and
endocrinological basis of PSU development and the hormonal treatment of
the PSU disorders hirsutism, acne vulgaris, and pattern alopecia are
reviewed. Improved understanding of the multiplicity of factors
involved in normal PSU growth and differentiation will be necessary to
provide optimal treatment approaches for these disorders.
- I. Introduction
- II. Embryology and Molecular Genetics of PSU Differentiation
- III. Postnatal Growth and Development of the PSU
- A. Hair follicle
- B. Sebaceous gland
- IV. Growth and Development of the PSU in Vitro
- A. Organ culture
- B. Monolayer culture
- V. Androgen Mechanism of Action in the PSU
- VI. Role of Peroxisome Proliferator-Activated Receptors in Sebocyte
Development
- VII. Retinoid Effects on the PSU
- VIII. Roles of Nonandrogenic Hormones in PSU Development
- IX. PSU Pathophysiology in Hirsutism, Acne Vulgaris, and Pattern Alopecia
- A. Hirsutism
- B. Acne vulgaris
- C. Pattern alopecia
- D. PSU sensitivity to androgen
- X. The Role of Hormonal Treatment in PSU Disorders
- XI. Conclusions
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I. Introduction
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ANDROGENS are a prerequisite for sexual hair and sebaceous
gland development (1 1A ). The importance of androgens in human hair
growth was first established by Hamilton (2), who observed that
castration before puberty prevented beard and axillary hair growth,
while castration after puberty reduced hair growth in both areas.
Furthermore, patients with androgen insensitivity typically have no
pubic or axillary hair. Androgens have been shown to increase the size
of the hair follicle, the diameter of the hair fiber, and the
proportion of time that terminal hairs spend in anagen (3). Androgens
are also important for sebaceous gland growth and differentiation as
acne vulgaris, a disorder of the sebaceous gland, has been shown to be
dependent upon the pubertal rise in androgen levels (4).
The pilosebaceous unit (PSU) consists of a piliary component and a
sebaceous component. Each PSU has the capacity to differentiate into
either a terminal hair follicle (in which a large medullated hair
becomes the prominent structure) or a sebaceous follicle (in which the
sebaceous gland becomes prominent and the hair remains vellus) (Fig. 1a
). Androgens play a key role in the
development of the PSU in most areas of the body. In androgen-sensitive
areas before puberty, the hair is vellus and the sebaceous glands are
small. In response to increasing levels of androgens, PSUs become large
terminal hair follicles (sexual hairs) in sexual hair areas or they
become sebaceous follicles (sebaceous glands) in sebaceous areas.
Androgens appear to promote sexual hair growth by recruiting a
population of PSUs to switch from producing vellus hairs to initiating
terminal hair growth. PSU disorders, namely acne vulgaris, hirsutism,
and pattern alopecia, do not occur until after the processes of puberty
begin (5). However, it is clear that the pathogenesis of these
disorders involves more than androgen (1, 3). For one thing, although
the development of acne normally parallels the rise in androgen with
pubertal progression, acne wanes in the late teenage years while blood
androgen levels remain stable. For another, PSUs respond differently to
androgen depending on their location; e.g., sexual hairs
grow only in certain areas of the body, while hairs on the scalp
undergo regression from a terminal to a vellus type in genetically
susceptible individuals. In addition, acne, hirsutism, and alopecia are
variably expressed manifestations of androgen action, and the severity
of acne or hirsutism is quite variable for a given degree of androgen
excess. Furthermore, some women will develop acne or hirsutism at
normal levels of androgen (idiopathic acne or hirsutism), while at the
other extreme some women will have no manifestations of androgen excess
(cryptic hyperandrogenemia). All of these considerations indicate that
factors other than androgen play major roles in PSU development and in
PSU disorders.

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Figure 1. Role of androgen in the development of the
pilosebaceous unit. Solid lines indicate effects of
androgens; dotted lines indicate effects of antiandrogens.
Hairs are depicted only in the anagen (growing) phase of the growth
cycle. In balding scalp (bracketed area), terminal hairs not
previously dependent on androgen regress to vellus hairs under the
influence of androgen. [Reprinted with permission from R. L.
Rosenfield and D. Deplewski: Am J Med 98:80S88S, 1995
(1A ) © Excerpta Medica Inc.]
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II. Embryology and Molecular Genetics of PSU Differentiation
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PSU differentiation occurs in the embryo between 2 and 4 months
gestation and requires precisely timed and localized interactions
between the fetal epidermis and dermis (3, 6). Each PSU acquires an
intrinsically determined morphology and pattern of behavior during its
development, which may be modulated by hormones (7). The difference in
the apparent density of sexual hair between men and women is due to a
different density of terminal hairs rather than a difference in the
number of PSUs, which is established before birth (8). Studies of
glucose-6-phosphate dehydrogenase mosaicism have demonstrated that
hairs originate as a clone from a pool of about five primitive
epidermal cells (9). The respective roles of the epidermis and dermis
in PSU formation have been elicited with tissue recombination
experiments by which the epidermis and dermis are separated, and then
the epidermis and dermis of different ages, locations, and species are
combined and the formed appendages are studied (10).
PSU differentiation begins with formation of a dermal mesenchymal
condensation that sends a signal to the overlying embryonic epithelium
to "make an appendage here" (Fig. 2
)
(6, 11). This results in downward growth of an epidermal plug to form a
skin appendage (6, 7). This initial message from the dermis to
epidermis is common to all classes of vertebrates. The epidermis
determines the type of appendage, directs its cephalo-caudal polarity,
and determines species specificity of keratin composition. For example,
mouse dermis can instruct the development of feather follicles in chick
epidermis. Some authors postulate that the epidermis sends the first
signal to the dermis and is responsible for the patterning of skin
appendages (12). Lymphoid-enhancing factor-1 (LEF-1), a DNA binding
molecule that acts by bringing together other DNA-bound transcription
factors, is expressed in the epidermis just before the formation of the
dermal mesenchymal condensations. Altering the expression of LEF-1 in
transgenic mice results in abnormal hair follicle distribution and
orientation (13, 14).

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Figure 2. Embryonic development of the pilosebaceous unit.
The stages shown correspond to the respective stages at which (a)
mesenchymal cells signal the overlying epithelium to initiate follicle
differentiation; (b) the epithelium signals the mesenchyme to form a
dermal papilla; and (c) the dermal papilla then signals for formation
of the pilosebaceous unit. [Adapted with permission from R. L.
Rosenfield and D. Deplewski: Am J Med 98:805885, 1995 (1A )
© Excerpta Medica Inc.]
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After the initial signal, the differentiating epithelium of the hair
plug then sends a less well defined but species-specific signal back to
the mesenchyme to "make a dermal papilla" (3). The dermal papilla
subsequently sends a message back to the adjacent epidermal placode to
"make a PSU." This message is species specific and cannot be
interpreted by epithelial cells from other classes of vertebrates. In
response, the PSU forms a hair bulb, a bulge region [site of
attachment of the arrector pili muscle and presumptive location and
source of stem cells that support regrowth of the follicle at the
beginning of anagen (6)], and a sebaceous gland. Then the rapidly
proliferating matrix cells at the base of the bulb grow rapidly
downward, giving rise to all the inner layers of the hair.
The cells in the sebaceous anlagen are identical to those in the basal
layer of the epidermis and the piliary canal. Most sebaceous glands
arise in a cephalo-caudal sequence from hair follicles (15). The future
common excretory duct, around which the acini of the sebaceous gland
attach, begins as a solid cord. The cells composing the cord are filled
with sebum, and eventually they lose their integrity, rupture, and form
a channel that establishes the first pilosebaceous canal. Fetal
sebaceous cells are quite large and functional and probably contribute
to vernix caseosa.
Epithelial and mesenchymal cells appear to communicate during
morphogenesis, and these interactions seem to involve molecules or
"morphogens" that play a regulatory role in development. Likely
morphogens include growth factors, cell adhesion molecules,
extracellular matrix molecules, intracellular signaling molecules such
as ß-catenin and LEF-1, hormones, cytokines, enzymes and retinoids,
together with their receptors (16, 17). Growth factors such as
epidermal growth factor (EGF), transforming growth factor
(TGF
),
transforming growth factor ß (TGFß) and fibroblast growth factor
(FGF) affect the proliferation and differentiation of the cells of the
PSU during development (18). These growth factors appear to exert their
effects via autocrine or paracrine pathways between cell types. EGF was
the first growth factor to be implicated in hair development when it
was shown that its administration to newborn mice delayed hair follicle
development (19), and this effect occurred over the entire coat.
Furthermore, growth of the first coat of hair in newborn mice is
accelerated by the administration of antibodies to EGF (20). The EGF
peptide has been found in the outer root sheath and sebaceous gland in
later stages of follicular development in sheep skin (21). The EGF
receptor has been found in embryonic skin by autoradiography and
immunohistochemistry; however, it is present in the adjacent
interfollicular epidermis rather than the placode and hair germ (22, 23). In later development, the EGF receptors are expressed in the outer
root sheath and sebaceous epithelium, and in some species in the hair
bulb, but no EGF receptors have been demonstrated in the dermal papilla
(3). The specific distribution of EGF in skin and throughout follicle
morphogenesis suggests that this growth factor has a more important
role in differentiation than in proliferation (18). TGF
, which is in
the EGF family and binds to the same receptor as EGF, has also been
found to inhibit murine hair growth (24). Several members of the TGFß
family (TGFß-1, ß-2, ß-3, bone morphogenetic protein-2, and bone
morphogenetic protein-4) have also been localized to various regions of
the developing PSU using in situ hybridization (25, 26). FGF
was also found to affect hair follicle initiation and development, but
the effects were confined to the area of treatment since FGF is not
readily diffusible in the skin (18). The FGF receptor 2 is likely to be
important in sebaceous gland development in humans, as a somatic
activating mutation of this receptor has been associated with localized
acne (27).
Cell adhesion molecules such as the cadherins, neural cell adhesion
molecule (N-CAM), intercellular cell adhesion molecule (I-CAM), and
tenascin are also thought to play a prominent role in PSU
differentiation. Both E-cadherin and P-cadherin have been detected in
developing follicles by immunohistochemistry (28). Whereas P-cadherin
is expressed throughout the epithelium, E-cadherin is confined to cells
in the presumptive matrix region. In studies of cultured lip skin, the
addition of antibodies against E-cadherin and P-cadherin caused
disruption of follicular development, and dispersal of the mesenchymal
aggregate (3). Although both embryonic and fetal keratinocytes express
E-cadherin, only embryonic keratinocytes express N-CAM, which is
localized in the initial mesenchymal aggregate (6); N-CAM is probably
important in cell adhesion and furthering cell aggregation. It is found
in the dermal papilla and dermal sheath in the adult PSU (6). I-CAM is
transiently expressed in the outer layer of the follicular cells,
perhaps as a result of a signal from the condensing mesenchymal cells
(6). Tenascin, an extracellular matrix protein, has been found to be
expressed in the basement membrane underneath the hair germ, but not in
the basement membrane between follicles (6). Tenascin is considered to
be a marker for epithelial-mesenchymal interactions, but the exact
function it plays in PSU development is not known.
Another molecule that may be important for PSU differentiation is
epimorphin, which is a mesenchymal signal factor. Epimorphin is found
in mesenchymal aggregates in embryonic rat skin and lung and may
function in aggregative behavior of immature cells (29). Studies have
shown that epimorphin can be detected in cell suspensions that have
been aggregated by centrifugation, whereas it is not present in the
same cells grown in monolayer. Other studies have shown that hair
follicles fail to develop in embryonic skin cells cultured in the
presence of antibodies to epimorphin (3). Other morphogens such as the
wingless homolog Wnt and sonic hedgehog also seem important for the
development and pattern of hair follicles (17, 30, 31).
Although more is being learned about the various molecules involved in
cell-cell interaction within the PSU, these cells must be organized in
a precise spatial and temporal order for proper function. The overall
complexity of PSU morphogenesis indicates the involvement of multiple
genes in a coordinated fashion, which suggests a role for homeobox
(HOX) genes. HOX genes have been found to control the developmental
fate of embryonic cells by encoding regulatory transcription factors
that either induce or repress effector genes, which in turn are
responsible for the position and development of each particular cell
(32, 33).
The HOX genes are aligned in tandem as clusters arranged in a colinear
fashion on four different chromosomes (Fig. 3
). They are transcribed in
"lock-step" with the first set of HOX genes being expressed
anteriorly (34). In humans, 39 HOX genes have been identified (33). The
HOX genes contain a homeobox, which is a highly conserved 180-bp DNA
sequence. Point mutations within the homeobox were discovered to be the
cause of "homeotic" malformations in fruit flies, i.e.,
malformations in which one body part develops looking like another. The
HOX genes encode monomer proteins with three
-helices, with the
second and third helices being arranged in a helix-turn-helix
configuration. The homeobox encodes the highly conserved homeodomain,
which is thought to bind to specific areas of DNA of both HOX and
non-HOX genes to regulate transcription.

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Figure 3. Homeobox (HOX) gene clusters. The four sets of
homeobox genes are organized in tandem on four different chromosomes.
Previous nomenclature of the HOX genes is shown in
parentheses, and the chromosomal location in mice is
likewise shown in parentheses. The genes are numbered
according to their anterior-posterior sequence and are expressed in a
"lock-step" manner with genes in the 3'-end of the clusters being
transcribed earlier in embryonic development than genes in the 5'-ends
of the clusters. Anticipated HOX genes are represented by
unnumbered boxes. HOX genes thought to be important for
PSU morphogenesis include A4, A5, C4, C6, C8, and D4. [Adapted with
permission from R. L. Rosenfield and D. Deplewski: Am J Med
98:805885, 1995 (1A ) © Excerpta Medica Inc.]
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HOX genes appear to be important in PSU morphogenesis. Chuong et
al. (35) demonstrated HOX gene expression in the chick feather
bud, which is an analog of the developing hair follicle. They showed
that the HOX C6 and D4 genes are expressed in a pattern that is
position specific (strongest expression in the anterior-proximal region
of skin appendages) and that a homeoprotein gradient existed within the
feather buds. Retinoic acid (RA) disrupted the normal pattern of the
expression of these HOX genes. Bieberich et al. (36) studied
the expression of HOX genes in murine hair development. They showed
that the HOX C8 gene was expressed in skin in an ascending gradient
from anterior to posterior. They also linked a HOX C8 clone to a
ß-galactosidase gene and demonstrated localization of this gene to
the dermal papillae of anagen hair follicles. Recently, Stelnicki
et al. (37) studied the expression of HOX genes during human
fetal skin development. The HOX genes appeared to be expressed in a
relatively conserved temporal and spatial pattern in developing skin
and hair follicles. HOX A4 gene expression was found in both developing
hair follicle (in the epidermal layer) and in sebaceous glands. In
developing hair follicles, HOX C4 expression was also detected in the
epidermal layer, while HOX A5 expression was limited to the inner root
sheath.
Retinoic acid also plays an important role in PSU morphogenesis (see
below), and the effects of retinoic acid on PSU development may be
partly due to regulation of the pattern of expression of HOX genes by
retinoic acid. Retinoic acid excess during a critical stage of mouse
embryogenesis has been shown to cause abnormal development of hair
follicles between the follicle peg and the bulbous follicle peg stage
(38). Furthermore, retinoic acid stimulates sebaceous gland development
and causes formation of a metaplastic branching tubular duct system
from the developing follicle. Since retinoic acid alters the pattern of
expression of HOX genes (34, 39), differential retinoic acid action on
HOX gene expression within the PSU during embryogenesis may play a role
in the subdivision of the PSU into its separate hair follicle and
sebaceous gland components.
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III. Postnatal Growth and Development of the PSU
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A. Hair follicle
The hair follicle is composed of epithelial components (the
matrix, medulla, inner root sheath, cortex, cuticle, and outer root
sheath) and dermal components (the dermal papilla and connective tissue
sheath) (40). During embryogenesis, the dermal papilla, upper outer
root sheath [including the bulge area where hair follicle stem cells
are thought to reside (3, 41)], and sebaceous gland are permanently
established (11). Postnatally, the remainder of the follicle undergoes
repetitive cycles of growth that recapitulate embryogenesis (1, 11, 42). Hair grows cyclically by passing from telogen (resting), to anagen
(growth), and through the phase of catagen (shortening), back to the
telogen phase to begin a new cycle. (Fig. 4
). The PSU at the telogen-anagen
transitional phase morphologically resembles the embryonic bulbous hair
peg. The dynamics of the hair growth cycle vary between species,
between different body sites in the same species, and between different
follicle types in the same body site (3). It is likely that hair
follicles have an intrinsic rhythmic behavior that is modulated by
systemic factors (3, 16). In man, these follicle cycles occur
independently, for the most part, with a superimposed modest summertime
peak of sexual and scalp hair growth, which may reflect changes in
androgen levels (42). The duration of anagen is the major determinant
of the length to which a hair grows, and it varies with the location of
the hair follicle. Mustache hairs grow for approximately 4 months and
scalp hairs for 3 yr. In contrast, the percentage of time scalp and
beard hairs spend in anagen only differs by about one-third. Other
factors influencing the amount of hair growth in various areas of the
body include the linear growth rate of the hair fiber, as well as the
diameter and density of the terminal hairs. Whereas shaving does not
induce hair growth, plucking a resting (telogen) hair causes an
advancement in the onset of anagen and thus induces hair regrowth (3, 43).

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Figure 4. The hair growth cycle. Hair follicles progress
through repetitive cycles of growth, from anagen (active phase of
growth which is the longest phase in the hair cycle), through catagen
(shortening of the hair follicle), to telogen (resting phase of the
hair cycle), after which the club hair is shed, and the follicle begins
a new hair cycle again.
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The postnatal hair follicle appears to retain the capability for
reciprocal interactions between hair epithelial cells and dermal
papilla cells, similar to the embryonic hair follicle. The hair growth
cycle is under the ultimate control of the dermal papilla. Studies by
Oliver and his colleagues (7, 44) demonstrated that the dermal papilla
must be present for regeneration of the hair follicle, and that cells
from the dermal sheath serve as a source of a new papilla. In a classic
series of experiments, he showed that removal of the dermal papilla
from the base of a rat whisker (vibrissa) caused cessation of hair
follicle growth, and reimplantation of dermal papilla stimulated the
growth of generations of whiskers. Dermal papilla cells were also
capable of inducing follicle formation when implanted elsewhere, with
the hair type specificity being determined by the source of the dermal
papilla. Cultured papilla cells from early passages retained the
capacity to induce the differentiated growth of the hair follicle (45).
Although the dermal papilla is a key factor in controlling the hair
follicle growth, other components of the hair follicle also play a
role. If only the dermal papilla is removed, after a lag time, a new
dermal papilla will eventually regenerate and induce growth of normal
whiskers. If the lower third of the hair follicle is removed (leaving
the dermal sheath intact), the dermal papilla will regenerate, but the
whiskers that grow will be proportional to the length of follicle used
for the regeneration experiment. If more than the lower third of the
follicle is removed including the portion of the follicle about the
sebaceous gland and its outlet, the dermal papilla will not regenerate
(44). Recently, Reynolds et al. (46) demonstrated that the
transplantation of a few hundred cells from human dermal-sheath tissue
from the scalp of an adult male into the skin of a genetically
unrelated female induced the formation of a new dermal papilla and hair
follicle.
There is evidence that PSU pluripotential stem cells reside in the
bulge area of the outer root sheath, just beneath the sebaceous duct,
and are capable of repopulating the hair matrix to the point where it
will recapitulate ontogeny by reinducing the dermal papilla (47). This
appears to be why the portion of the follicle about the sebaceous gland
outlet is important for hair regeneration (48). Basal cells of the
bulge form an outgrowth pointing away from the hair shaft and are
therefore safeguarded against accidental loss due to plucking (41).
Changes take place in the dermal papilla during the hair growth cycle
in terms of cell morphology, vascularization, and in composition and
volume of the extracellular matrix (3). During late telogen the dermal
papilla is pulled upward toward the bulge area. If the dermal papilla
fails to ascend upward toward the bulge area during this phase, the
follicle stops cycling and the hair is lost (49). This was deduced
because mutations of the hairless gene, which encodes a transcription
factor important for movement of the dermal papilla to the bulge area,
results in permanent alopecia (50, 51). Stem cells of the bulge area
are thought to be activated by dermal papilla cells, to which they
respond by proliferating and growing down to push the dermal papilla
away (41). Once the dermal papilla is pushed away, the bulge area
becomes quiescent again. During anagen, the dermal papilla enlarges and
develops an extensive extracellular matrix (3). At a given time, the
anagen follicle receives a signal that terminates this phase and
initiates catagen (see below). The catagen (regression) phase involves
apoptosis (16, 52), which is associated with a decrease in volume of
the extracellular matrix. In telogen the dermal papilla becomes a
condensed ball of cells with almost nonexistent extracellular matrix
located immediately below the lower pole of the follicular epithelium
(3). There is a decline, and eventual cessation of mitotic activity in
the extracellular matrix during telogen, and the matrix cells adjacent
to the dermal papilla convert to lower outer root sheath cells. The
hair becomes a club hair, which is eventually shed from the follicle to
make room for new hair growth. The extracellular matrix becomes
organized again around the papilla at the start of the next hair growth
cycle (7). The dermal papilla has its own blood supply, and the
capillary loops present in the dermal papilla in anagen are lost in
telogen (3).
Multiple growth factors are ultimately involved with hair follicle
growth and normal cycling including insulin-like growth factor-I
(IGF-I), FGF-7 (also known as keratinocyte growth factor), FGF-5, and
EGF. IGF expression is stimulated by androgen in dermal papilla cells,
and IGF-I has been demonstrated to stimulate hair follicle growth
in vitro (53). This suggests that some of the trophic
effects of androgens on the hair follicle are mediated through growth
factors such as IGF. IGF-I has also been shown to slow hair follicle
entry into the catagen phase, which suggests that it is an important
factor in control of the hair growth cycle (54). FGF-7 production has
been found in the dermal papilla, and its receptor has been found in
nearby matrix cells (55). When the FGF-7 receptor is disrupted in mice,
the morphology of the hair follicles is abnormal and there are 6080%
fewer hair follicles present than in control mice (56). FGF-5 knock-out
mice and mice with nonfunctional EGF receptors have long, fine
angora-like hairs, due to an extended anagen phase, which suggests that
these growth factors are potential signals that cause anagen to
terminate and catagen to begin (43, 57, 58).
Hair grows through keratinocyte cell division, which takes place in the
hair bulb close to the dermal papilla. The cells differentiate to form
the various layers as they move up the follicle (59). Hair can thus be
considered to be the holocrine secretion of the hair bulb. The mature
hair consists of medulla, cortex, cuticle, inner root sheath (three
layers), and outer root sheath. As matrix cells divide, they form
keratin microfibrils, which mature in daughter cells in the upper bulb.
At this point the keratin is 4658 kDa in size. The hair shaft comes
to consist essentially of solid packages of hard keratin fibrils
embedded in an amorphous matrix. Accompanying this terminal
differentiation of hair is the formation of larger keratins (53 and 63
kDa) in the shaft.
Keratins comprise more than 90% of hair proteins. Keratins are a group
of water-insoluble, cystine-containing proteins. Each hair fibril
consists of a bundle of coiled, low-sulfur keratins, which are in turn
bundled in an
-helical pattern forming a coiled coil. The amorphous
matrix into which these bundles are imbedded contains high-sulfur,
lower molecular mass keratins. The molecular and biochemical
basis for the ultrastructural differences among the layers of hair is
unknown. Unlike scalp hairs, sexual hairs are curled around their axes.
Racial differences also affect such diverse features of hair as shape
and medullation. The concept of "donor dominance" was elucidated in
classic hair transplant studies (60), which indicated that these
structural differences were inherent in the PSU, i.e. hairs
retain the characteristics of their area of origin.
Before puberty, the androgen-dependent PSU consists of a prepubertal
vellus follicle, which consists of a virtually invisible hair and a
tiny sebaceous gland component (Fig. 1
) (1A ). Under the influence of
pubertal amounts of androgens, PSUs in sexual hair areas differentiate
in a distinctive pattern which depends on their location. Sexual hair
development is normally not seen before age 9 in girls (average age of
stage 3 sexual hair development, 12 yr) and age 10 in boys (average age
of stage 3 sexual hair development, 13 yr) (61). In the sexual hair
areas, a terminal hair follicle develops and the sebaceous gland
develops only moderately. In the balding-prone area of scalp, PSUs
respond to androgen in yet a different manner in individuals
predisposed to pattern alopecia. Terminal hair follicles that
previously grew without androgen gradually change with each growth
cycle to an intermediate kind of follicle in which the hair component
reverts to the vellus state, leaving an adult vellus follicle (Fig. 1
).
These phenomena are reversed by antiandrogens: both types of
androgen-dependent PSUs revert toward the prepubertal state.
The most direct evidence that androgens are the principal hormones
controlling sexual hair growth is that androgens stimulate hair growth
in eunuchs and castration reduces it. The latter classic observation
illustrates the plastic nature of the PSU response to androgens,
i.e., the reversion from terminal to vellus follicles. The
sensitivity of sexual hair follicles to androgen is determined by their
pattern of distribution (1A ) and generally wanes from pubis to head
(Fig. 5
), or from posterior to anterior
considering the embryogenesis of these PSUs. Thus, rising androgen
levels (such as occur either normally during puberty or abnormally in
hyperandrogenic states) recruit an increasing proportion of PSUs in a
given area to initiate the growth of terminal hair follicles, each in
accordance with its preset genetic sensitivity to androgen. The
apparent dose-response curve to androgen is fairly steep, with a
mustache typically appearing at plasma testosterone levels just
slightly above the upper limits of normal for women and the beard
requiring 10-fold higher levels for full growth. There is considerable
individual variability.

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Figure 5. Relationship of stages of sexual hair development
to testosterone as a representative plasma androgen. Note logarithmic
scale for testosterone. A, Prepubertal; B, stage 3 pubic hair; C, stage
5 pubic hair; D, moderate hirsutism; E adult male. [Reprinted with
permission from R. L. Rosenfield: Clin Endocrinol Metab
15:341362, 1986 (1 ) © W. B. Saunders Co.]
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B. Sebaceous gland
The sebaceous gland is composed of acini, which are attached to a
common excretory duct composed of cornifying, stratified squamous
epithelium that is continuous with the wall of the piliary canal and,
indirectly, with the surface of the epidermis (15). The life cycle of
sebaceous cells (sebocytes) begins at the periphery of the gland in the
highly mitotic basal layer. As sebaceous cells differentiate, they
accumulate increasing amounts of lipid and migrate toward the central
duct. Eventually, the most mature sebocytes burst and their lipid is
extruded into the ducts of the sebaceous gland as the holocrine
secretion sebum (1, 15). Sebaceous lipid is different from other skin
surface lipid in that it is composed of 12% squalene and 26% wax
esters in addition to the cholesterol, cholesterol esters, and
triglyceride common to both kinds of epithelial secretions (1). The
cells of sebaceous glands turn over more rapidly than those of hairs,
as they are normally completely renewed every month (62). The sebaceous
gland is thought to play an active role in processing of the sheath of
terminal hair shafts. The shaft does not separate normally from the
sheath in the absence of the sebaceous gland (63). The exact nature of
this component is not known.
In acne-prone areas, androgen causes the prepubertal vellus follicle to
develop into a sebaceous follicle in which the hair remains vellus and
the sebaceous gland enlarges tremendously. The sensitivity of sebaceous
glands to androgens seems to follow a different dose-response curve
than the hair follicle, with most sebaceous glands being highly and
similarly sensitive to testosterone. Sebum production is at its nadir
at about 4 yr of age and begins to increase at about 8 yr of age.
Microcomedones (1 mm or less in diameter), which form when desquamated
cornified cells of the upper canal of the sebaceous follicle become
exceptionally adherent and form a plug in the follicular canal, make
their appearance in about 40% of 810 yr olds. Thus, sebaceous gland
function begins before true puberty, at levels of testosterone below
those ordinarily required for the initiation of pubic hair growth (Fig. 6
). This development corresponds with
adrenarche, the "adrenal puberty" marked by increasing production
of the adrenal androgen dehydroepiandrosterone sulfate (DHEA-sulfate).
Seventy-five percent of the normal male amount of sebaceous gland
function is achieved at androgen levels normal for women. As for hair
growth, there is considerable individual variability in the degree of
sebum production to a given level of androgen. Although the apparent
dose-response curves above are given in terms of the major circulating
form of androgen, testosterone, other plasma androgens contribute to a
greater or lesser extent, as will be discussed.

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Figure 6. Relationship between sebum output and testosterone
as a representative plasma androgen. Note logarithmic scale for
testosterone. Dotted lines show the normal range of
sebum excretion. A, 4 yr-old children, computed from data on
composition of sebum assuming epidermal lipid secretion rate of 10
µg/cm2/3 h; B, 7- to 11-yr-old prepubertal children; C,
castrated men; D, normal adult women, 2040 yr of age; E, normal adult
men, 2040 yr of age; *, average sebum level of normal 15-
to 19 yr-old boys and girls. [Reprinted with permission from R. L.
Rosenfield: Clin Endocrinol Metab 15:341362, 1986 (1 ) ©
W. B. Saunders Co.]
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Retinoids antagonize the effects of androgen on the sebaceous gland.
They appear to inhibit the proliferation and differentiation of
sebocytes. This results in atrophy of sebaceous glands and decreased
sebum production in man (64, 65, 66, 67) and animals (68, 69, 70).
 |
IV. Growth and Development of the PSU in Vitro
|
|---|
Stromal-epithelial interaction is an important feature of the
growth and differentiation of the epithelial cells of the skin and its
PSU appendages in vitro just as it is in vivo.
This is like the situation in other glands that are targets of sex
steroid action (71).
A. Organ culture
Organ culture has permitted the short-term study of growth and
development of hair follicles and sebaceous glands in vitro
without disturbing the natural close relationship between the stromal
and epithelial components of these structures (40, 67). Human hair
follicles isolated by microdissection have less stringent requirements
for maintenance and growth in culture than sebaceous glands (40).
Cortisol and insulin are necessary for optimal growth (72). Hair
follicles can be maintained in short-term organ culture while
maintaining their in situ morphology and growth at a normal
rate of about 0.3 mm/day (72, 73, 74). By day 14 in culture, the dermal
papilla rounds up and the follicle no longer produces a
keratinized hair fiber.
Human sebaceous glands isolated by microdissection can be maintained
for up to 7 days in organ culture with full retention of their in
situ morphology, rates of lipogenesis, and responses to steroid
hormones (72, 75). Although they continue to form new cells at a normal
rate until 14 days of culture, they do not differentiate normally after
7 days in culture unless phenol-red, an estrogen, is removed from the
medium (67, 75). Insulin, cortisol, T3, and
bovine pituitary extract are required for optimal maintenance of the
human sebaceous gland in organ culture (72).
B. Monolayer culture
Monolayer culture has been used to study the specific factors
involved in the growth and development of hair and sebaceous epithelial
cells. However, monolayer culture is known to be incompatible with the
normal differentiation of skin epithelial cells (76). When epidermal
cells are grown in monolayer, they progress almost directly from basal
to a thin squamous cell layer without the intervening cell stages. On
the other hand, when epidermal cells are grown on an artificial dermis
(composed of 3T3 fibroblasts in a collagen lattice) lifted on a raft to
the air-liquid interface, development is virtually normal. The normal
balance between epidermal growth and differentiation in the lifted raft
system has been attributed to a retinoic acid gradient being
established at the epidermal-dermal junction (77). The nanomolar
concentration of retinoic acid in FCS inhibits normal orderly cell
maturation and the biochemical changes characteristic of terminal
differentiation in a submerged raft system. When rafts are lifted to
the surface of the medium, the level of retinoic acid falls in the
suprabasal layers, so differentiation progresses normally. If, however,
the retinoic acid concentration in the medium is raised in the lifted
raft system, epidermal differentiation becomes disturbed like that in
monolayer culture (78).
Hair and sebaceous epithelial cells are grown in epidermal type
monolayer culture systems. Traditionally, this requires maintaining
them in close contact with a stromal feeder layer consisting of
3T3-fibroblasts. For epidermal cells, the stromal growth factors have
been identified and the requirements for growth in culture simplified:
a collagen matrix or fibronectin are necessary for good plating
efficiency, and insulin or IGF-I plus keratinocyte growth factor
(FGF-7) are necessary for growth (79, 80). Hair and sebaceous epithelia
have more stringent requirements for growth in primary monolayer
culture. For sustained proliferation, most systems require a stromal
support system and medium containing insulin, hydrocortisone, and
cAMP-amplifying agent such as choleratoxin (72, 73, 81). Stromal
support systems include 3T3 cells, nitrocellulose filters (72, 74), 3T3
cells mixed with collagen (76), and gelatin sponge supports (73).
Although most previous studies have been done in the presence of serum,
serum has been found to inhibit growth of hair follicles and to inhibit
differentiation of sebaceous cells in culture (40, 73, 82). This may be
due, in part, to inhibitory factors within serum such as TGFß (73).
Only recently have chemically defined serum-free media become available
that support growth of hair and epithelial cells.
Hair and sebaceous epithelial cells form typical polyhedral epithelial
cell colonies in culture, which resemble epidermal epithelial cell
colonies by light microscopy. Nevertheless, they can be identified as
unique epithelial cell populations by a variety of techniques. For
example, early-passage cells cultured from plucked anagen hairs have
the characteristics of outer root sheath cells according to
ultrastructural analysis and the pattern of expression of hair proteins
(83). They also have a pattern of testosterone metabolism that favors
androgen action (high ratio of 5
-reductase to
17ß-hydroxysteroid dehydrogenase activities) compared with
epidermal cells (84). Dermal papilla cells, which themselves have a
distinctive profile in culture (85), are the only type of stroma known
to support the growth and early differentiation of putative hair germ
cells from epidermis (86). Fujie et al. (87) reported
recently that, by using specific growth medium containing bovine
pituitary extract, cells derived from human sebaceous glands could be
maintained in primary culture and serially cultured under serum free
conditions, without a biological feeder layer or specific matrices.
This effect was demonstrated in both explant culture and dispersed cell
culture. Sebocytes obtained from outgrowths (explants) from the
periphery of the gland lobules (88, 89) can be passaged twice in
monolayer culture without a stromal support system before rates of
sebocyte proliferation fall (72). Proliferation of these cells in
vitro has been found to depend inversely on the age of the donor
and also on the specific body site where the skin was isolated (88).
Recently, Zouboulis et al. (90) developed an aneuploid
immortalized human sebaceous gland cell line that maintains the
morphological and functional characteristics of normal differentiated
human sebocytes in the absence of a stromal matrix.
Our studies of sebocyte growth and development have used rat preputial
sebocytes. The preputial glands of the rat are located on either side
of the penis in the male, and the clitoris in the female. The
secretions of the preputial gland are thought to play a role in both
territorial marking and mating behavior. The preputial gland has been
an attractive source of cells for the study of sebaceous cell growth
and differentiation as the paired glands are easy to isolate because
they are large and encapsulated, they are available on demand, and
single cell suspensions at all stages of differentiation can be
prepared for study (91). Although the preputial gland may have
physiological functions beyond that of the human sebaceous glands, the
gland is a holocrine organ, and preputial sebocytes resemble human
sebocytes in many ways (81, 92, 93). Single cell suspensions are
prepared from isolated preputial glands and plated on a mitomycin-C
treated 3T3-J2 feeder layer. After attachment, sebocytes are cultured
in a serum-free, chemically defined cell culture medium that permits
definition of the factors regulating sebocyte proliferation and
differentiation (82).
These sebaceous cells have been shown to exhibit a number of
differentiation characteristics in monolayer culture that are similar
to those of human sebocytes and distinguish them from epidermal cells.
Sebocytes form relatively slow-growing colonies (81, 94). They contain
a variety of keratins, including cytokeratin K4, which is localized to
suprabasal sebocytes and is constitutively expressed in culture (81, 88). Sebocytes also differ from epidermal cells by forming few
cornified envelopes in culture, as in vivo (Fig. 7
, top panel) (81, 94). They
respond to ß-adrenergic treatment in vitro, as in
vivo, with a distinctive pattern of cAMP-regulatory subunit
predominance (95, 96). A striking difference between the behavior of
sebocytic and epidermal keratinocytes in culture is in their
differential response to the administration of
all-trans-retinoic acid (1A, 97). Retinoic acid causes
dose-dependent inhibition of sebocyte proliferation but does not have
an effect on epidermal cell growth (Fig. 7
, bottom panel).
In contrast to its inhibitory effect on sebocytes, however, retinoic
acid appears to maintain the PSU duct (98). Sebocytes form
sebum-specific lipids such as squalene and wax esters (88). Although
fatty acid synthesis is greater in cultured sebocytes than in cultured
epidermal cells (88, 94), the amount of lipid is not enough to clearly
distinguish them from epidermal cells by light microscopy (99).
Electron microscopy reveals that sebocytes in monolayer culture form
abundant tiny lipid droplets, but they undergo only abortive
differentiation, with coalescence of these droplets in only a very few
cells at the center of colonies (Fig. 8
) (1A ).

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Figure 7. Retinoic acid (RA) effects on preputial sebocytes
grown in monolayer culture. Top panel, Epidermal cells
develop more cornified envelopes in culture than sebocytes, and this
development is inhibited by all-trans-RA. Bottom
panel, All-trans-RA inhibits the proliferation
of cultured sebocytes in a dose-related fashion but does not affect the
growth of cultured epidermal cells. P values by Tukeys
test after two-way ANOVA. [Reprinted with permission from R. L.
Rosenfield and D. Deplewski: Am J Med 98:80S88S, 1995 (1A )
© Excerpta Medica Inc.]
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Figure 8. Electron photomicrographs of preputial sebocytes
in monolayer culture. Top, Typical early differentiated
preputial cell. The cytoplasm is filled with much smooth
endoplasmic reticulum, a few cisternae of rough endoplasmic reticulum,
mitochondria (M), and small lipid droplets (LD). Several inclusions are
present in the nucleus (N). Scale bar, 2 µm.
Bottom, Maturing preputial cell near center of colony.
The cytoplasm contains coalescing lipid droplets (LD), smooth (SER) and
rough (RER) endoplasmic reticulum, mitochondria (M), and occasional
lysosomes (LY). N, Nucleus. Scale bar, 1 µm.
[Reprinted with permission from R. L. Rosenfield and D. Deplewski:
Am J Med 98:80S88S, 1995 (1A ) © Excerpta Medica
Inc.]
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 |
V. Androgen Mechanism of Action in the PSU
|
|---|
Skin is a major site of testosterone formation in women, in whom
half of testosterone production is derived from peripheral conversion
of secreted 17-ketosteroids such as DHEA, DHEA-sulfate, and
androstenedione (5). Although the skin is not capable of de
novo synthesis of androgens from cholesterol, it contains all the
enzymes necessary to convert the prohormones DHEA and androstenedione
into testosterone and the most potent androgen, dihydrotestosterone
(DHT) (1, 100, 101, 102). Serum levels of DHEA-sulfate have been found to
correlate with sebum production in early puberty (103) and with the
presence of acne vulgaris in prepubertal girls (4, 104). The metabolic
pathway involved in forming active androgens from DHEA-sulfate is
illustrated in Fig. 9
.
The androgen-sensitive skin appendages (sweat gland, hair follicle, and
sebaceous gland) each metabolize androgens in a characteristic pattern;
however, sweat glands and sebaceous glands account for the vast
majority of androgen metabolism in skin (Table 1
) (105, 106, 107, 108). 3ß-Hydroxysteroid
dehydrogenase (HSD) is particularly prominent in sebaceous glands (109, 110). Type 2 17ß-HSD mRNA expression has been reported in outer root
sheath cells of cultured human hair, and type 3 17ß-HSD expression in
beard and axillary dermal papilla cells from both sexes (111). The
former favors inactivation of estrogen; the latter favors formation of
testosterone. The predominant 17ß-HSD isozyme expressed in human
sebaceous glands at both the mRNA and protein level is the type 2 form
(112). Furthermore, the oxidative activity (conversion of estrogen and
testosterone to less active precursors) of 17ß-HSD is greater in
sebaceous glands from non-acne-prone skin as compared with acne-prone
regions. A predominance of 5
-reductase over 17ß-HSD activity
appears to favor DHT formation in sweat glands and in the outer root
sheath cells of pubic, as compared with scalp, hairs. In addition,
5
-reductase is 2 to 4 times more active than 17ß-HSD in sebaceous
glands from facial skin (113). A summary of the localization of the
mediators of androgen signal transduction in the PSU is provided in
Table 2
.
The biological activity of testosterone on target tissues is effected
in large part by its conversion to DHT by 5
-reductase, which is a
microsomal NADPH-dependent enzyme (114, 115, 116, 117). 5
-Reductase was first
suspected to play a key role in androgen action when DHT was found to
be the predominant form of steroid bound to the androgen receptor in
prostate glands after the administration of testosterone (118, 119).
Testosterone and DHT stimulate 5
-reductase mRNA and 5
-reductase
activity, an effect mediated through the androgen receptor (116, 120, 121, 122). Two forms of 5
-reductase exist, which are
differentially expressed in various tissues, likely as a result of
their respective promoters. They have different pH optima and
sensitivity to inhibitors. The two isozymes are approximately 46%
identical in sequence, have similar gene structures, are both
hydrophobic, and share similar substrate preferences (115, 116). The
type 2 isozyme is important for most androgen actions in sexual organs
(123), and a deficiency of 5
-reductase type 2 in humans is a cause
of male pseudohermaphroditism (115, 124). However, the type 1 isozyme
is the major form of 5
-reductase in skin.
Both 5
-reductase isozymes are expressed at variable times in
development. Thigpen et al. (123) used immunoblotting to
demonstrate two waves of expression of the type 1 isozyme in human
skin, the first appearing at birth and lasting through age 23 yr and
the second beginning during puberty and continuing throughout life.
This suggested induction by androgens secreted perinatally and at
puberty. In contrast, there was just a single wave of expression of the
type 2 isozyme in skin, beginning at or just before birth and ending
around age 23 yr. Since they did not detect 5
-reductase type 2
expression in adult skin, they postulated that the tendency to balding
may be programmed by the expression of the 5
-reductase type 2 in
early life. However, the 5
-reductase type 2 isozyme has been
localized by immunohistochemistry to hair follicles of human scalp;
specifically to the innermost portion of the outer root sheath and the
proximal inner root sheath (125). In addition, the 5
-reductase
activity in the dermal papilla from beard resembles that of the type 2
isozyme in having an acidic pH optimum and a lower Michealis-Menten
constant than that of nonsexual hairs (101); this suggests that dermal
papillae of sexual hairs form more DHT than those of nonsexual hairs.
5
-Reductase activity has been found in cultured fibroblasts from
sexual and nonsexual skin sites, in a distribution compatible with
regional specialization of mesenchymal cells with respect to this
important determinant of androgen action (1). 5
-Reductase activity
is successively greater in fibroblasts cultured from nonsexual, pubic,
and genital skin (Table 3
) (108). Further
studies found evidence for regional specialization of androgen
metabolism in sexual and nonsexual epithelial cell types. DHT formation
from testosterone in cells cultured from skin organelles increased in
the following order (%/mg DNA/min): epidermal (0.8%) < scalp
hair (2.8%) < pubic hair (8.1%) < foreskin fibroblasts
(71%) (84).
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Table 3. Relative 5 -reductase activity and androgen
receptor content of fibroblasts cultured from sexual and nonsexual
skin sites
|
|
The activity of 5
-reductase has been found to be higher in sebaceous
glands of the scalp and facial skin than in other skin areas (106). The
type 1 isozyme is the major form of 5
-reductase in the scalp, and
there are no obvious differences in type 1 isozyme expression between
balding vs. nonbalding areas of adult scalp according to
immunohistochemical studies (117, 123, 125). Within the scalp, the type
1 isozyme is localized primarily to the sebaceous glands, with lower
levels present in the hair follicle and dermis. Imperato-McGinley
et al. (126) found sebum production in patients with
5
-reductase type 2 deficiency to equal that of normal males. This
suggested that either the male level of testosterone compensated for
the decreased DHT and was capable of sustaining sebum production or
that sebum production was under the control of the type 1 isozyme. The
type 1 isozyme is also the predominant isozyme in rat preputial
sebocytes (127).
Androgens act after binding to the androgen receptor, which is a member
of the subfamily of steroid hormone receptors that includes the
progesterone, mineralocorticoid, and glucocorticoid receptors (128). At
low concentrations, potent agonists of the androgen receptor facilitate
interactions between the amino-terminal and carboxy-terminal regions of
the androgen receptor, which stabilizes the receptor and likely causes
a slowing of ligand dissociation from the receptor (129). Both
testosterone and DHT bind to the same high-affinity androgen receptor,
but they bind with different affinities and dissociation rate
constants, have different efficacy in stabilizing the androgen
receptor, and have different physiological roles (130). Once
testosterone or DHT is bound to the androgen receptor, the
substrate-receptor complex binds to the androgen receptor response
element and regulates gene expression by acting as a transcription
factor. The DHT-receptor complex appears to be the more effective
complex at activating gene transcription (115) and may also be capable
of activating genes that the testosterone-receptor complex cannot
activate.
Androgen receptors in skin are primarily localized to dermal papilla,
sebaceous epithelium, and eccrine sweat epithelium according to
immunohistochemical analysis (131, 132, 133). They are also present in
lesser amounts in basal epidermal cells and scattered reticular dermal
fibroblasts. Successively greater numbers of androgen receptors have
been found in fibroblasts cultured from nonsexual, pubic, and genital
skin (Table 3
) (108). It is unclear whether there is specific androgen
receptor immunoreactivity in the hair bulb or outer root sheath. In rat
preputial sebocytes, androgen receptor expression has been found to
increase with sebocyte differentiation (93). Androgen receptor mRNA
abundance seems to approach its maximum at the stage at which sebocytes
achieve competence for their specific pattern of lipid accumulation.
The dermal papilla cells are thought to be the primary target
cells within the hair follicle that mediate the growth-stimulating
signals of androgens, by releasing growth factors that act in a
paracrine fashion on the other cells of the hair follicle (16, 134).
Studies by Itami et al. (135) support this concept. These
workers reported a stimulatory effect of androgen on the growth of
beard hair epithelium in monolayer culture. However, as with outer root
sheath cells grown from other sexual hairs (84), androgen did not
directly stimulate the growth of outer root sheath cells, nor did
androgen affect the growth of beard dermal papilla cells. However, when
beard outer root sheath cells and beard dermal papilla cells were
cocultured, androgen stimulated the growth of the beard epithelial
cells, and antiandrogen countered this effect. Furthermore, dermal
papilla cells cultured from androgen-sensitive (beard) hair follicles
not only have more androgen receptor binding sites than do those from
less androgen-sensitive (scalp) sites (134), but the dermal papilla are
also larger (42). Saturation analysis revealed more androgen receptors
in dermal papilla cells cultured from balding scalp, as compared with
nonbalding scalp, which supports the hypothesis that androgens work via
the dermal papilla cells (136).
The mode of androgen action on sebocyte proliferation is unclear.
Akamatsu et al. (137, 138) reported a direct stimulatory
effect of androgen on the growth of passaged human sebocytes in
monolayer culture. In addition, there is evidence that the effect of
testosterone and DHT on human sebaceous cell proliferation depends on
the area of skin from which the glands are obtained. In one system,
proliferation of sebaceous cells obtained from facial skin was
stimulated up to 50% in a dose-dependent manner by both testosterone
and DHT, whereas in sebaceous cells isolated from the extremity,
testosterone had no effect at all, while DHT had only a small effect
(137, 139). Furthermore, spironolactone, which exhibits antagonistic
activity to androgens at a cellular level, inhibited sebocyte
proliferation, thus supporting a receptor-mediated effect (139). In
another system, the androgen effect on proliferation of facial
sebaceous cells was maximized (50% increase) at about
10-9 M and lost at
10-7 M (87). On the other
hand, androgen has an inhibitory effect on preputial sebocyte
proliferation in primary monolayer culture (140). It is unclear whether
these different effects are due to variances in culture technique or
species differences.
Androgens have been shown to stimulate the differentiation of
sebocytes, although this effect is modest in vitro (75, 141). However, androgen augments the differentiative effect of
peroxisome proliferator activated receptor-
(PPAR
). Recent
research also suggests important postreceptor interactions of androgen
with retinoic acid derivatives and GH.
 |
VI. Role of Peroxisome Proliferator-Activated Receptors in Sebocyte
Development
|
|---|
Despite the fact that sebaceous gland growth is dependent on
androgen in vivo, androgens have not had a clear effect on
sebocyte differentiation in a variety of in vitro culture
systems (75, 137, 142, 143). Since androgen receptors are present in
sebaceous cells (93), we postulated that a downstream signal
transduction pathway involved in the regulation of lipid metabolism was
not being expressed in cultured sebocytes. We tested the hypothesis
that mechanisms involved in lipogenesis during adipocyte
differentiation may be similarly used in sebocyte differentiation.
We found that PPAR activators induced lipogenesis in rat sebocytes
in vitro (141), although in vivo studies had not
shown the systemic administration of the PPAR activators, clofibric
acid (144) or eicosatetraynoic acid (145), to stimulate sebum activity.
PPARs have been shown to regulate multiple lipid metabolic genes in
peroxisomes, microsomes, and mitochondria by acting on PPAR response
elements (146, 147). PPARs were originally identified as part of a
subfamily of "orphan receptors" within the nonsteroid receptor
family of nuclear hormone receptors (148). There are three PPAR
subtypes:
,
, and
. Activation of PPAR
and
by their
respective specific ligands, the thiazolidinedione rosiglitazone and
the fibrate WY-14643, induced lipid droplet formation in sebocytes but
not in epidermal cells. Linoleic acid and carbaprostacyclin, both
PPAR
and
ligand-activators, were more effective but less
specific, stimulating lipid formation in both types of cells. Either
was more effective than the combination of PPAR
and
activation,
suggesting that PPAR
is involved in this lipid formation. Linoleic
acid 0.1 mM stimulated significantly more
advanced sebocyte maturation than any other treatment, including
carbaprostacyclin, which was compatible with a distinct role of long
chain fatty acids in the final, terminally differentiated stage of
sebocyte maturation. When DHT was added with the PPAR activators, an
additive effect on lipid droplet formation in sebocytes was seen only
with the combination of DHT and a PPAR
activator (Fig. 10
). This suggests that PPAR
influences a step in sebocyte differentiation which is related but
distinct from that influenced by androgen.

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Figure 10. Differentiation of preputial sebocytes in primary
culture after treatment with dihydrotestosterone (DHT)
10-6 M and/or the thiazolidinedione
rosiglitazone (BRL-49653) in serum free medium in the presence of
insulin 10-6 M (n = 5). Lipid is stained
with Oil Red O (ORO). Means ± SEMs are shown. DHT
10-6 M has a small but significant effect
(P < 0.05). BRL has a dose-response effect over a
broad range commencing at 10-10 M
(P < 0.01 vs. control, with
10-8 M BRL differing from the higher and lower
doses at the P level shown). DHT is additive in its
effect with BRL = 10-8 M, and the effect
of DHT + BRL 10-6 M is the greatest of all.
[Adapted with permission from R. L. Rosenfield et
al.: J Invest Dermatol 112:226232, 1999
(141 ).]
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PPAR subtype mRNA expression was also detected in rat sebocytes (141).
PPAR
1 mRNA was demonstrated in sebocytes, but not in epidermal
cells; it was more strongly expressed in freshly dispersed than in
cultured sebocytes. In contrast, PPAR
mRNA was expressed to a
similarly high extent before and after culture in both sebocytes and
epidermal cells. These findings are compatible with the concept that
androgen-enhanced PPAR
1 gene expression plays a unique role in
initiating the differentiation of sebocytes, while activation of
constitutively expressed PPAR
by long-chain fatty acids finalizes
sebocyte maturation.
Since increased sebum production is an important element in the
pathogenesis of acne vulgaris (149, 150), the finding that PPARs appear
to mediate sebocyte cytoplasmic lipid accumulation may have
implications for the treatment of acne. It may be feasible to develop
PPAR antagonists that can interfere selectively with sebum formation
without invoking the side-effects of currently available treatment
modalities.
 |
VII. Retinoid Effects on the PSU
|
|---|
Retinoic acid derivatives (retinoids), which are analogs of
vitamin A, have an effect on growth and differentiation of diverse
tissues. Retinoids likely play a role in the hair follicle, since, like
androgens, they are involved in epithelialmesenchymal interactions
in morphogenesis and embryological development, and the hair growth
cycle partially recapitulates the embryogenesis of the hair follicle
(42). Furthermore, retinoids alter the expression of HOX genes, which
are likely to be involved in PSU morphogenesis. Retinoids have also
been shown to affect the hair follicle growth-cycle in mice (151, 152, 153),
with topical application increasing the length of the anagen phase, and
decreasing time in telogen.
Retinoids have profound effects on sebaceous gland activity. Whereas
trace amounts promote sebocyte growth and differentiation, larger doses
cause atrophy of sebaceous glands and a decrease in sebum secretion in
both animals and humans (64, 65, 69, 154). Retinoids have been
postulated to inhibit lipid synthesis in sebocytes either directly,
through an inhibition of lipogenic enzymes, or indirectly, by decreased
cell proliferation (155). Retinoids have been used for the treatment of
acne vulgaris for a long time although the precise mechanism for their
efficacy has not been completely elucidated.
Retinoids act via specific nuclear receptors that belong to the
superfamily of nuclear receptors (which include steroid receptors and
PPARs) and act as ligand-dependent transcriptional regulators (128, 148). There are two classes of retinoid receptors, the retinoic acid
receptor (RAR) and the retinoid X receptor (RXR) (156, 157). Each class
of receptor contains three subtypes:
, ß, and
(128, 158). The
expression of retinoid receptors is tissue-specific. Whereas sebaceous
glands express predominantly RXR
and RAR
in mice and humans
(159, 160, 161), RARß is highly expressed in cultured dermal papilla cells
from human scalp hair follicles (162).
Two distinct cellular retinoic acid binding proteins (cRABPs) have been
found, which may serve to regulate the intracellular level of retinoic
acid and thus further regulate retinoid action (152). cRABP-I is
postulated to enhance the metabolism of retinoic acid to inactive
derivatives and thus limit the retinoic acid-specific action that
hinders cell differentiation, and cRABP-II may facilitate retinoic acid
signal transduction (152).
All-trans-retinoic acid, the natural ligand of RAR, acts
after binding to RAR and also acts via its metabolism to
9-cis-retinoic acid, which is the natural ligand for RXR
(128, 163, 164, 165). Activation of these selective receptors shows distinct
biological effects on different cell types. However, the mechanisms
underlying the divergent effects of RAR and RXR activation are unclear
(166, 167). It has been suggested that they activate different
signaling pathways, regulate the expression of distinct target genes,
and/or have opposing effects on the same target gene (147, 168, 169, 170).
Unlike RAR, which functions only when heterodimerized with RXR, RXR
functions by forming either homodimers or heterodimers with other
ligand-regulated receptors including PPARs, thyroid hormone receptor,
and vitamin D receptor (171, 172, 173, 174, 175). RXR thus has been termed a master
regulator since it functions as a key regulator of the activity of
several nuclear receptors. The heterodimerization of RXR with one
nuclear receptor may limit its ability to heterodimerize with other
receptors if the quantity of RXR is limited. Homo- or heterodimers
bind to retinoic acid response elements on DNA, typically in the
promoter regions of susceptible genes, and thus control the
transcription of specific genes. The characterization of retinoic acid
response elements has revealed a complex pattern of retinoid
recognition and activation (128, 148). Potential retinoid
receptor-dependent signaling pathways that mediate cell proliferation
and differentiation include those pathways involved in the induction of
apoptosis and regulation of multiple growth factors and metabolic
enzymes (147, 166, 167, 168, 169, 170, 176, 177, 178).
Previous studies using all-trans-retinoic acid have not been
able to discern the individual actions of each receptor as
all-trans-retinoic acid acts on both RAR and RXR receptors.
It has not been entirely clear which of the retinoid receptor pathways
is involved in the specific processes of sebocyte growth and
development. Recently, however, we tested selective RAR and RXR
ligand-activators and their antagonists for their effects on preputial
sebocyte growth and development (179). RARs (especially the ß - or
-subtypes) mediate both the antiproliferative and
antidifferentiative effects of retinoids. However, RXRs had prominent
differentiative and weak proliferative effects. Therefore, the
antiproliferative and antidifferentiative effects of
all-trans-retinoic acid are probably mediated by RARs,
whereas its differentiative effect at high dose may be mediated by RXRs
via all-trans-retinoic acid metabolism to
9-cis-retinoic acid. The stimulatory effects of the specific
RXR ligand on sebaceous cells suggested that the RXR effect may be
related to the ability of RXR to heterodimerize with PPARs (141).
Indeed, our preliminary data suggest that a low dose of RXR ligand
augments the sebocyte response to activating ligands of PPARs (180).
 |
VIII. Roles of Nonandrogenic Hormones in PSU Development
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|---|
GH, IGF, insulin, glucocorticoids, and estrogen are well
recognized to play roles in PSU growth and development in lower animals
(3). Clinical evidence indicates that they also play a role in man.
Several observations suggest that GH and IGF play a role in PSU growth
and development. GH replacement augments the amount of sexual hair
growth in response to testosterone in panhypopituitary children (Fig. 11
) (181). In addition, GH substitution
in adult GH-deficient men has been found to enhance androgen effects on
hair growth (182). Furthermore, there may be a positive association
between high IGF-I levels and the likelihood of vertex baldness in men
(183). Acne vulgaris, a sebaceous gland disorder, increases at puberty
when GH as well as androgen levels are rising (1). However, acne peaks
in midadolescence and then normally wanes while androgen levels remain
high. This course corresponds less closely to plasma androgen levels
than it does to GH and IGF-I levels (184), suggesting an effect of GH
and IGFs on sebaceous gland development. In addition, the GH excess of
acromegaly is known to be associated with excess output of sebum
(seborrhea) (185).

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Figure 11. Comparison of the total cumulative testosterone
dose needed to induce axillary hair growth in 23 boys with and without
GH deficiency. The mean total dose of testosterone
(lines in figures) needed to induce axillary hair growth
was significantly higher in the GH-deficient group as compared with the
non-GH-deficient group. The open circles represent two
patients who did not develop axillary hair despite 2.2 and 3.7 yr of
testosterone treatment. [Reprinted with permission from M. Zachmann
and A. Prader: J Clin Endocrinol Metab 30:8595,
1970 (181 ). © The Endocrine Society.]
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Animal studies support the concept that GH is important for sebocyte
growth and development. Ebling et al. (186) demonstrated
that the atrophic preputial glands of hypopituitary rats could not
be restored to normal size with testosterone alone, but were fully
restored when GH was added. Sebum production in response to
testosterone was similarly found to depend upon GH (187). Ozegovic and
Milkovic (188) examined the effects of GH on female preputial glands
and found that preputial gland growth could be stimulated by GH.
However, in view of the impurity of the pituitary GH available at the
time these studies were performed, these results were not necessarily
indicative of a GH effect.
GH is an important factor for organ growth and cell differentiation
(189). After binding to the GH receptor, it has both direct effects as
well as indirect effects through IGF production (190, 191, 192). The IGFs
make up a family of peptides that are partly GH dependent and mediate
many of the mitogenic and anabolic actions of GH (190, 192).
The GH receptor has been found in hair follicles and the acini of
sebaceous glands by immunohistochemistry (193, 194, 195, 196). IGF-I has also
been detected in hair follicles (197), with the IGF-I receptor being
localized to the outer root sheath and matrix cells of the hair bulb
(198). IGF-I has been localized to the peripheral cells of the
sebaceous gland in normal rat skin by immunohistochemistry (197). This
location of IGF-I corresponds with the position of the basal, highly
mitotic cells of the gland. These observations support the possibility
that GH and IGFs are trophic factors acting directly on hair follicles
and sebaceous epithelium.
IGF-I at physiological doses is essential for hair follicle growth
in vitro (54, 73). IGF-I prevents hair follicles from
entering catagen and thus may be an important physiological regulator
of hair follicle growth and the hair growth cycle (73). During the rat
hair growth cycle, a marked decrease in IGF-I receptor expression is
found during late anagen and early catagen (199), suggesting that a
potential signal for hair follicles to enter catagen is a decrease in
IGF-I receptor expression. Furthermore, IGF-I may mediate some of the
androgen effects on PSUs, by inducing the up-regulation of
5
-reductase by DHT in genital skin fibroblasts (200). IGF-I is 10
times more potent than IGF-II in stimulating hair follicle growth (54).
Insulin may be directly involved in hair growth as hair growth can be
retarded in diabetes mellitus and accelerated by insulin treatment
(201). Insulin is one of many additives required for optimal growth of
many epithelial cell types in culture (72, 81, 202); in high doses it
has been found to be necessary for fat cell differentiation, where it
likely serves as a key regulator of lipid biosynthetic enzymes (203, 204). Insulin may act as an IGF-I surrogate as it has approximately
50% amino acid homology to the IGFs (205, 206, 207), and it binds to the
IGF-I receptor at high concentrations (208). Insulin at
supraphysiological doses is essential for hair follicle growth in
vitro (54, 73), and in the absence of insulin, hair follicles
prematurely enter into a catagen-like state in vitro (54, 209). Insulin in high dosage stimulates sebocyte proliferation in
culture (140, 210).
Our data in preputial sebocytes indicate that GH, IGFs, and insulin
have distinct effects on sebaceous cell growth and differentiation
in vitro (140). GH stimulates differentiation of sebocytes
yet surprisingly has no effect on DNA synthesis (Fig. 12
). GH also augments the effect of DHT
on sebocyte differentiation, an effect that is beyond that found with
IGFs or insulin (Fig. 13
). In contrast,
IGF-I exerts its major effect on proliferation, while having an effect
similar to insulin on differentiation (Fig. 12
). Insulin in
supraphysiological doses is an important factor in sebocyte
differentiation, and dose-response considerations suggest that its
effect of potentiating the GH induction of differentiation exceeds that
expected from its action as an IGF-I surrogate (Fig. 14
). These data indicate that GH may in
part exert its metabolic effects on sebocytes directly rather than
indirectly through IGF production. These data are consistent with the
concept that increases in GH and IGF production contribute in
complementary ways to the increase in sebum production during puberty
and in acromegaly. The exact mechanism by which GH affects sebocyte
differentiation is not completely understood, and much remains to be
clarified in the chain of events after GH stimulation.

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Figure 12. Differentiation (A), and proliferation (B) of
preputial sebocytes in primary culture after treatment with GH,
insulin-like growth factor-I (IGF-I), or insulin-like growth factor II
(IGF-II) in serum free medium in the presence of insulin
10-6 M (n = 4). Means ±
SEMs are shown. A, The effects of these treatments on
lipid-forming colonies. ORO, Oil Red O. At 10-8
M, GH was 4 times more potent than IGF-I, and 6 times more
potent than IGF-II (P < 0.001). IGFs
(10-9 to 10-8 M) were no better
than insulin 10-6 M alone (control) in
stimulating differentiation. B, The effect of these treatments on
3H-thymidine incorporation in comparison to the control
group. GH had no effect on DNA synthesis. IGF-I increased DNA synthesis
significantly more than IGF-II. [Reprinted with permission from D.
Deplewski and R. L. Rosenfield: Endocrinology
140:40894094, 1999 (140 ) © The Endocrine Society.]
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Figure 13. Sebocyte differentiation in monolayer culture in
response to maximum effective doses of GH, IGF-I, or IGF-II with DHT
10-6 M in the presence of insulin
10-6 M. Control group represents insulin
10-6 M without DHT. Means ±
SEMs of lipid-forming colonies are shown. GH
10-8 M significantly augmented the effect of
DHT on sebocyte differentiation, while IGF-I and IGF-II tended to have
the opposite effect.
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Figure 14. Sebocyte differentiation in monolayer culture in
response to maximum effective doses of insulin (Ins) and IGF-I with and
without GH 10-8 M. Control group is without
Ins, IGF-I, or GH. Means ± SEMs of lipid-forming
colonies are shown. Insulin 10-6 M and IGF-I
10-9 M each stimulate approximately 12% of
sebocyte colonies to differentiate. However, when these same doses of
insulin and IGF-I are added with GH, the insulin/GH combination has a
significantly greater effect on sebocyte differentiation (32% of
colonies differentiate) than the IGF-I/GH combination (24% of colonies
differentiate). [Adapted with permission from D. Deplewski and R.
L. Rosenfield: Clin Endocrinol Metab 15:341362, 1986 (1 )
© W. B. Saunders Co.]
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Glucocorticoids also have effects on PSUs. Hypertrichosis is present in
Cushings syndrome and acne is aggravated by glucocorticoid
pharmacotherapy (211, 212). These observations suggest a role of
cortisol in PSU growth and differentiation. In vitro studies
of human sebocytes have shown that hydrocortisone stimulates sebocyte
proliferation in a dose-dependent manner (210). Furthermore, our
preliminary studies in rat preputial sebocytes demonstrate that
cortisol is essential for sebocyte differentiation and necessary for
the optimal differentiative response to GH and IGF-I (213). At low
doses, cortisol also augments the proliferative effects of IGF-I. Thus,
the aggravation of acne by cortisol may be related to its stimulatory
effects on sebocyte differentiation and proliferation in the presence
of other growth-promoting factors.
Estrogen prolongs the growth period of scalp hair by increasing cell
proliferation rates and postponing the anagen-telogen transition (214).
Estrogen in low dosage stimulates pubic and axillary hair growth
slightly. This is clear from observations that pubic hair increases
upon inducing puberty in hypogonadal patients with physiological doses
of estradiol alone (215). This occurs without a detectable increase in
plasma androgens. It is possible that this effect of estrogen on hair
growth is mediated in part by induction of androgen receptors (216), or
by increase in IGF-I (217). In late pregnancy, when estrogen levels are
high, a high proportion of scalp hair follicles remain in anagen (218).
Postpartum, a large number of hair follicles simultaneously advance
into telogen, causing loss of a large number of hairs. This postpartum
telogen effluvium has been postulated to be caused by the rapid
decrease of estrogen at the time of delivery (219). On the other hand,
estrogen directly suppresses sebaceous gland function (1, 3, 75, 220, 221). An estrogen effect is clear at ethinyl estradiol doses of 35
µg/day or more (222).
Prolactin plays a role in PSU function as indicated by the development
of hirsutism and seborrhea in hyperprolactinemia in women. To a great
extent this PRL effect is mediated by its stimulation of adrenal
androgen production (223). However, Wielgosz and Armstrong (224)
reported in 1977 that PRL caused a significant increase in preputial
gland weight in hypophysectomized, ovariectomized immature rats,
suggesting that PRL acts directly as a sebotropic hormone. This may be
a somatotrophic effect. However, PRL receptors have been localized to
the dermal papilla and sebaceous glands in sheep skin (225).
Other hormones thought to be important in PSU growth and development
include thyroid hormone and catecholamines. Thyroid disturbances lead
to changes in hair character and growth. Hypothyroidism causes scalp
hair to become dull and brittle. A diffuse alopecia occurs with a
greater proportion of hair follicles in telogen (226, 227). Replacement
treatment typically reestablishes the normal anagen/telogen ratio
(227). Hyperthyroidism can also lead to diffuse hair loss (201).
Thyroid hormone has also been shown to stimulate sebum secretion in
hypophysectomized/castrated rats (228). Thyroid hormone receptors
have recently been localized to the outer root sheath, dermal papilla,
and sebaceous gland in human PSUs by immunohistochemistry (229, 230).
Studies using RT-PCR have indicated that the ß1 isoform is the major
isoform expressed in the adult human PSU (230). Furthermore, the
addition of T3 to culture media causes the
proliferation of outer root sheath and dermal papilla cells (229).
Catechols are leading candidates as important natural activators of
cAMP pathways. Epinephrine has been reported to rapidly stimulate
sebocyte lipogenesis (96), so it may be involved in the
aggravation of acne by stress.
The PTH-related protein (PTHrP), the vitamin D receptor, and
melanocortin-5 receptor also play roles in PSU development. PTHrP is
produced by cells of the inner root sheath of the hair follicle, and
treatment of mice with an antagonist of this protein increases the
number of hair follicles in the anagen phase (231). Furthermore, PTHrP
knockout mice have shaggy hair and hypoplastic sebaceous glands (232),
while mice with PTHrP overexpression in skin fail to initiate or have a
delay in hair follicle development and have hyperplastic sebaceous
glands (232, 233). The vitamin D receptor has been found to be
expressed in the outer root sheath and dermal papilla of hair follicles
and in sebaceous glands (234, 235). Mutations of the vitamin D receptor
have been associated with alopecia in humans (236). Furthermore,
vitamin D receptor knock-out mice also develop alopecia starting at 1
month of age (237). Histology of the skin of these knock-out mice
reveals dilatation of the hair follicles and development of dermoid
cysts. When the mineral status of these mice is normalized by dietary
supplements, alopecia still occurred, which suggests that the
abnormality in the vitamin D receptor mediates the alopecia (238). The
melanocortin-5 receptor is a widely distributed receptor for ACTH and
melanocortin peptides. Targeted disruption of this receptor leads to a
decrease in sebaceous lipid production and a defect in water repulsion
in mice, indicating the importance of the melanocortin-5 receptor in
sebaceous gland function (239).
 |
IX. PSU Pathophysiology in Hirsutism, Acne Vulgaris, and Pattern
Alopecia
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Hirsutism, acne, and pattern alopecia are variably expressed
manifestations of androgen excess and may exist singly or in
combination in different women (1). Since the sebaceous gland and hair
follicle form a single morphological entity, such differences in
expression of androgen action seem to reflect genetic variations in the
diverse factors that modulate the effects of androgens on these
distinct organelles. At one end of the normal spectrum are women whose
PSUs seem hypersensitive to normal blood androgen levels; this seems to
account for idiopathic hirsutism and acne. At the other end of the
spectrum are women whose PSUs are relatively insensitive to androgen;
this seems to account for cryptic hyperandrogenism (hyperandrogenemia
without skin manifestations).
A. Hirsutism
Hirsutism is typically defined as excessive male-pattern hair
growth in women. This definition distinguishes hirsutism from
hypertrichosis, which is the term reserved to describe the
androgen-independent growth of body hair which is vellus, prominent in
nonsexual areas and most commonly familial or caused by metabolic
disorders (e.g., thyroid disturbances, anorexia nervosa,
porphyria) or medications (e.g., phenytoin, minoxidil, or
cyclosporine). The degree of hirsutism can be graded by the method of
Ferriman and Gallwey (Fig. 15
), whereby
each of the nine body areas that are most hormonally sensitive are
assigned a score from 0 (no hair) to 4 (frankly virile) and the scores
are summed. A total score of 8 or more is abnormal for adult Caucasian
women. Thus, it is normal for women to have a few terminal hairs in
most of the "male" areas. Although the Ferriman-Gallwey scale is a
useful clinical scoring systems, it does have its limitations. It does
not take into account the fact that clearly abnormal amounts of hair
growth may be confined to only one or two areas without raising the
total hirsutism score, it does not weight the face appropriately to its
cosmetic importance, and it does not allow one to grade the sideburn or
neck areas, although these are the areas that are usually worrisome
cosmetically. Furthermore, it omits grading of hair on the perineal and
buttock area, which can be a source of embarrassment to affected women.

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Figure 15. Hirsutism scoring system of Ferriman and Gallwey.
The nine body areas possessing androgen-sensitive pilosebaceous units
are graded from 0 (no terminal hair) to 4 (frankly virile). [Reprinted
with permission from R. L. Rosenfield: Clin Endocrinol
Metab 15:341362, 1986 (1 ) © W. B. Saunders Co.]
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Hirsutism in women corresponds better to the plasma free testosterone
than to the plasma total testosterone concentration (240, 241).
Disparities between plasma levels of total and free androgens are due
to the relatively low fractional binding of 17ß-hydroxysteroids to
plasma proteins, which in turn results from the low
testosterone-estradiol binding globulin (sex hormone binding globulin)
level characteristic of such women.
To better delineate the relationship between hirsutism and androgen
levels, we have related hirsutism score to plasma free testosterone
(Fig. 16
) (242). Influences of race and
age were minimized by confining the study to Caucasian females 1821
yr of age. There was a striking variability of the relationship between
hirsutism score and the plasma free testosterone concentration.
Although plasma free testosterone was significantly elevated in those
with mild hirsutism (hirsutism score 816), it was normal in half the
subjects. To look at it another way, among women with modest elevations
of plasma free testosterone (up to 2-fold), 22% had moderate hirsutism
(hirsutism score 1725), 43% had mild hirsutism, and 35% had none.
All four moderately hirsute women in this study had elevated plasma
free testosterone. The variation in the plasma free testosterone
concentration within the mildly hirsute group was twice as great as
could be accounted for by the normal episodic, diurnal, and cyclic
variations in plasma free testosterone. This suggested that more than
half of the variability in the response of the population to androgen
was independent of the plasma free testosterone concentration. It is
possible that differences among individuals with respect to other
plasma androgens could make the difference. However, only one of the
seven hirsute women with a normal plasma free testosterone had an
elevated plasma DHT level and that was minimally abnormal. This
supports the theoretical consideration which suggested that the
contribution of other plasma androgenic steroids to hirsutism appears
to be relatively low (108). These data illustrate the marked
variability in the relationship of hirsutism to plasma free
testosterone. We concluded that mild hirsutism is associated with
hyperandrogenemia in half of cases, and that the great majority of
women with moderately severe hirsutism are hyperandrogenic.

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Figure 16. Relationship of the plasma free testosterone
concentration to hirsutism score and acne. Dotted lines
show upper limits of normal (upper 5% population limit) for plasma
free testosterone and hirsutism score. The study population consisted
of unselected volunteers attending a student health clinic and a group,
designated by crosses, who were referred for evaluation
of hirsutism. Solid symbols indicate patients with acne.
Acne was minor or mild in all but one case whose free testosterone
level was 11 pg/ml. Only half of the women with mild hirsutism
(hirsutism score 816) had significantly elevated plasma free
testosterone levels, while all four women with moderate hirsutism
(hirsutism score 1725) had elevated free testosterone levels. Acne
was a variably expressed manifestation of elevated free testosterone
levels, since in four patients, acne was the only manifestation of the
increased free testosterone, and acne was only present in half of the
hyperandrogenic patients with hirsutism. [Reprinted with permission
from R. L. Rosenfield: Clin Endocrinol Metab15:341362, 1986 (1 ). © W. B. Saunders Co.]
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B. Acne vulgaris
Sebum, the holocrine secretion of sebaceous glands, plays a
central role in the pathogenesis of acne vulgaris. Acne occurs at the
onset of puberty, peaks at midpuberty, and usually resolves by the
mid-20s (104, 243). Virtually all adolescents have at least a few open
and closed comedones, which are noninflammatory enlarged sebaceous
follicular ducts known as blackheads and whiteheads, respectively.
Androgens are an incitant of acne vulgaris since they are necessary for
the growth and differentiation of sebaceous glands (1). Furthermore,
acne does not occur until plasma androgen levels rise at puberty.
However, there is more to acne than sebaceous gland growth and sebum
production: abnormal sebaceous duct keratinization, bacterial
colonization with Propionibacterium acnes, and host immune
response factors are also important (1).
The pathogenesis of acne is thought by most to commence with
plugging of the outlet of the sebaceous gland with desquamated
cornified cells of the upper canal of the follicle. These cells become
abnormally adherent, thus interrupting the normal process of shedding
and discharge through the follicular orifice, and a hyperkeratotic plug
is formed. The more severe stages of acne are the consequences of
obstruction and impaction, with bacterial secondary infection of static
sebum occurring in an anaerobic environment. P. acnes is an
anaerobic diphtheroid that is a normal constituent of the cutaneous
flora and populates the androgen-stimulated sebaceous follicle. It is
not present on the skin in an appreciable amount until the onset of
puberty (244), and skin of acne-prone patients has a greater population
of this bacteria than those without acne (245). P. acnes
causes hydrolysis of triglycerides to liberate FFA as irritants, as
well as releasing chemotactic factors that attract neutrophils, which
cause further damage and eventual rupture of the follicular wall (246).
A closed comedone takes 2 months to form from its precursor lesion, the
microcomedone (149). Inflammatory acne, consisting of papules,
pustules, nodules, and cysts, is a later phenomenon that develops from
comedonal acne. Although inflammatory lesions may be fewer in number
compared with comedones, these are what usually lead patients to seek
treatment (247). Inflammatory acne may leave deep physical and
psychological scars. A clinically useful acne grading system is shown
in Table 4
.
Similar to hirsutism, acne vulgaris in adult women corresponds better
to the plasma free testosterone than to the total testosterone. Lucky
et al. (248) found that women with acne alone had plasma
free testosterone levels as high as did those with hirsutism with or
without acne. Schiavone et al. (249) obtained similar
results; in addition, they found only a weak correlation between the
severity of acne and the plasma free testosterone level. In our study
of 18- to 21-yr-old females, as described above for hirsutism, acne was
a variably expressed manifestation of hyperandrogenemia: in four
patients, minor acne was the only manifestation of an elevated plasma
free testosterone level, and only half the hyperandrogenemic patients
with hirsutism had acne (Fig. 16
) (242). Furthermore, acne severity did
not correlate with free testosterone levels.
DHEA-sulfate also plays a role in acne through its conversion to more
potent androgens that stimulate sebum production. Prominence of
3ß-hydroxysteroid dehydrogenase in sebocytes (109, 110) permits DHEA
to be a prominent prohormone for DHT formation within skin. Plasma
DHEA-sulfate is likely the most important androgen for the initiation
of comedonal acne in early puberty, as it rises first (4). Marynick
et al. (250) found that DHEA-sulfate plasma concentrations
correlated specifically with cystic acne. Excessive DHT formation in
skin has also been implicated in the pathogenesis of acne vulgaris
(100, 251), suggesting that activity of 5
-reductase may also play an
important role.
When the onset of inflammatory acne is early (before age 8) or late (in
the third decade), persists beyond the teen years, is resistant to
appropriate therapy, flares severely with the menstrual cycle, or is
accompanied by hirsutism or oligomenorrhea, underlying hyperandrogenism
should be suspected (242, 252). However, acne alone, even comedonal
acne alone, may be due to androgen excess (242, 248). Thus, minor or
mild acne can be the sole manifestation of hyperandrogenemia.
C. Pattern alopecia
Pattern alopecia is the androgen-dependent thinning of hair that
occurs progressively with advancing age in genetically susceptible men
and women. However, it can begin as soon as the early teenage years.
The process is mainly the result of miniaturization of terminal to
vellus hair follicles (Fig. 1
). There is also moderate loss of PSUs
with time and often moderate inflammatory changes with perifollicular
lymphocytic infiltration (253). The androgen dependency of pattern
alopecia was initially deduced on the basis of eunuchs not suffering
from male pattern hair loss unless they are given replacement
testosterone (254). Pattern alopecia is generally thought to be
distinct from the diffuse thinning of scalp hair associated with aging.
However, Whiting found a 10% loss of hair follicles in the
transitional zone of balding in men with pattern alopecia (personal
communication). Thus, it remains possible that pattern alopecia may
partially be due to an accentuation of the normal process of hair loss
associated with aging. In men, pattern alopecia typically presents as
temporo-occipital pattern (male-pattern) balding (Fig. 17
) (255). In female pattern alopecia,
the thinning typically begins with involvement of the crown of the
scalp (rather than the vertex and bifrontal areas as in men) and may
become fairly diffuse (Fig. 18
) (256).
Women can have isolated pattern alopecia or seborrhea with neither
hirsutism nor acne, with a clear elevation of plasma free testosterone
(257). Pattern alopecia can be psychologically devastating in both
sexes.

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Figure 17. Male pattern baldness. The Hamilton Baldness
Scale as modified by Norwood. [Reprinted with permission from O.
T. Norwood: South Med J 68:13591365, 1975 (255 ).]
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Figure 18. Female pattern baldness. A, Midline part in an
unaffected female. B, Midline part in a women with mild-pattern
alopecia. Note the "Christmas tree" like pattern of hair thinning.
An early finding in female-pattern alopecia is irregularity of the
borders of the part. C, Ludwig patterns of alopecia in women from mild
(pattern I on left), to more extensive alopecia (pattern III on right).
[Reprinted with permission from E. A. Olsen: J Am Acad
Dermatol 40:106109, 1999 (256 ). © Mosby, Inc.]
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The genetic predisposition to pattern alopecia is still poorly
understood. However, the pattern of inheritance is considered to be
polygenic with variable penetrance (258, 259, 260). It is likely that the
penetrance is greatly determined by the height of the plasma androgen
level. A common genetic defect has been suggested to cause male-pattern
baldness in men and polycystic ovaries in women (261, 262, 263). The exact
nature of this component is currently unclear.
D. PSU sensitivity to androgen
We have devised a model for the interaction between intrinsic PSU
sensitivity to androgen and plasma androgen levels in the pathogenesis
of hirsutism, acne, or pattern alopecia (Fig. 19
) (1). In this model, the apparent
sensitivity of the skin to androgens is as great a factor, if not
greater, than the plasma androgen level in determining the skin
manifestations of androgen excess. The variability in the response to
androgen may be both quantitative (severity) or qualitative (hirsutism
and/or acne and/or alopecia). Indeed, in some women, hyperhidrosis
(i.e., excessive sweat gland function) may be the only skin
manifestation of androgen excess (264). At a normal plasma free
testosterone concentration, only a small percentage of women will have
hirsutism or acne, those with a high apparent skin sensitivity to
androgen being identified clinically as having idiopathic hirsutism or
acne. We advocate reserving the term "idiopathic hirsutism" for
those patients in whom excessive growth of terminal hair is not
explained by androgen excess. In this sense, we believe that hirsutism
is either hyperandrogenic or idiopathic. (Parenthetically, this
terminology distinguishes idiopathic hirsutism from "idiopathic
hyperandrogenism," in which the source of androgen excess can not be
localized to the ovaries or adrenal glands (265), an entity that is
often confused with idiopathic hirsutism). At a modestly elevated
plasma free testosterone concentration (up to 2-fold), most women will
have hirsutism or acne, but in a few cases there will be no skin
manifestations. This variability would seem to be the basis of the
cryptic hyperandrogenemia reported to occur with mild hyperandrogenic
states, such as polycystic ovary syndrome and nonclassic congenital
adrenal hyperplasia (266, 267, 268). At moderate elevations of free
testosterone (over 2-fold), virtually all women will have some degree
of hirsutism and/or acne.

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Figure 19. Model of the apparent interaction between
pilosebaceous sensitivity (hirsutism and/or acne) and plasma androgens
(exemplified by plasma free testosterone (ft) concentrations). The
plasma total testosterone (tt) concentrations corresponding to the
plasma free testosterone categories are approximations that overlap
because the fraction of plasma testosterone that is free varies widely
with the concentration of testosterone binding globulin. Reprinted with
permission from R. L. Rosenfield and D. Deplewski: Am J
Med 98:80S88S, 1995 (1A ) © Excerpta Medica, Inc.]
|
|
It is not yet clear what controls the nature of the response of a
PSU to androgen (e.g., whether the response will be
hirsutism alone, acne alone, or both). The variability in PSU
responsiveness to androgens may be related in part to variations in
androgen metabolism. This concept is supported by the finding that skin
5
-reductase activity and 5
-reduced testosterone metabolites are
related to hair growth (269), and increased 5
-reductase activity has
been demonstrated in skin of hirsute women (as compared with nonhirsute
women) (270), as well as in sebaceous glands of acne-prone skin (271).
In addition, greater 3ß-hydroxysteroid dehydrogenase activity has
been found in sebaceous glands from balding scalp than nonbalding scalp
(102). Furthermore, many authors have postulated that androstanediol
glucuronide and other androgen conjugates are biochemical markers of
cutaneous androgen metabolism and action (272, 273), and these levels
are elevated in hirsute women (273, 274). Toscano et al.
(274) found variations in androgen metabolism in patients with
hirsutism as compared to those with acne. Hirsute women had higher
levels of 3
-androstanediol and its glucuronide, whereas women with
acne alone had levels similar to the control group. This suggested that
the presentation of hirsutism or acne was dependent on differential
skin metabolism of androgens. However, Rittmaster (275, 276) has
reviewed evidence that counters this hypothesis and strongly suggests
that androgen conjugates are more likely to be markers of adrenal
steroid production and metabolism than of skin metabolism. This
controversy is still under debate. In summary, the expression of two
separate clinical manifestations of PSU disorders may be due to
different metabolic fates of DHT itself. Alternatively, these findings
may simply be explained by the fact that sebaceous and sweat glands are
the skin organelles with the highest 5
-reductase activity and that
they undergo varying degrees of hypertrophy in hyperandrogenic states.
There are associations of hirsutism and acne with hyperprolactinemia
(223), acromegaly (277), and insulin-resistant states (278, 279, 280, 281). The
hirsutism in these states has been generally thought to be mediated by
hyperandrogenism. Two considerations suggest that insulin-like growth
factors also likely play a direct role. First, GH and IGF-I directly
promote PSU growth and/or differentiation. Second, hirsute patients
with adrenal hyperandrogenism reportedly have an increase in IGF-I
levels, while those with ovarian hyperandrogenism have decreased levels
of IGF binding protein-3, which would seem to enhance IGF-I
bioavailability (282).
The possibility that variations in androgen receptor expression are
related to PSU responsiveness seemed unlikely from early studies (283).
However, recent investigations have reopened the question by examining
the length of the polymorphic CAG repeat in exon 1 of the androgen
receptor (which can affect receptor activity) and the imprinting status
of the androgen receptor (as the androgen receptor is subject to X
chromosome inactivation) in hirsute and nonhirsute females (284, 285, 286).
No correlation was found between the number of CAG repeats and the
presence or absence of hirsutism (284, 285, 286). Whereas Vottero et
al. (285) reported that hirsute patients had skewing of X
chromosome inactivation with the shorter of the two alleles of the
androgen receptor (the most active) being significantly less
methylated, a recent larger study by Calvo et al. (286)
showed no evidence of skewed X chromosome inactivation in hirsute
women. Thus, neither the number of CAG repeats in the androgen receptor
gene nor skewed X chromosome inactivation is likely to play a role in
variable PSU responsiveness to androgens.
 |
X. The Role of Hormonal Treatment in PSU Disorders
|
|---|
Hirsutism can be controlled by cosmetic measures such as shaving,
plucking, waxing, and electrolysis. Topical agents and retinoids play
an important role in the treatment of acne, and minoxidil is the first
line treatment for pattern alopecia. However, mechanical hair removal
does not alter the underlying tendency of hirsutism to worsen with
time, and topical treatments often yield incomplete control of acne,
particularly when there is a hyperandrogenic basis. Hormonal treatment
of the PSU manifestations of hyperandrogenism is used to either
suppress ovarian or adrenal androgen production or to block the action
of androgens within the skin (Table 5
).
Typically, 912 months of treatment are needed to judge the efficacy
of a given treatment on hair growth, because of the long duration of
the hair growth cycle, and 23 months may be needed to see the full
effect of treatment on acne.
Combination estrogen-progestin therapy, in the form of an oral
contraceptive, is first-line endocrine therapy for PSU disorders in
women with ovarian hyperandrogenism. The estrogenic component, in
particular, is responsible for the suppression of LH and thus serum
androgen levels (287) and also results in a dose-related increase in
sex hormone binding globulin (SHBG) (288), which lowers the fraction of
plasma testosterone that is unbound. Combination therapy has also been
demonstrated to decrease DHEA-sulfate levels, perhaps by
reducing ACTH levels (289, 290). The adequacy of androgen suppression
can be assessed at the end of the third week of treatment.
The estrogenic component of most oral contraceptives currently in use
is either ethinyl estradiol or mestranol. The choice of a specific oral
contraceptive should be predicated on the progestational component as
many progestins have some androgenic potential. Ethynodiol diacetate
has a relatively low androgenic potential, while progestins such as
norethindrone, norgestrel, and levonorgestrel are particularly
androgenic (291), as can be judged from their attenuation of the
estrogen-induced increase in SHBG level (292). Norgestimate exemplifies
the newer generation of progestins that are virtually nonandrogenic
(293) and seems to be the progestin of choice for treatment of
hyperandrogenic women (222).
In clinical trials of estrogen-progestin therapy, the extent of hair
growth, based on shaving frequency, is improved in half of women (294).
This treatment can be expected to arrest progression of hair growth and
reduce the need for depilation procedures.
Estrogens also have a direct, dose-dependent suppressive effect on
sebaceous cell function, with a uniform effect on acne at a dose of 100
µg/day. Recent studies have demonstrated that treatment of women with
moderate acne with oral contraceptives containing 35 µg of ethinyl
estradiol in combination with norgestimate improves the extent of acne
by 5070% (222, 295). Indeed, an oral contraceptive pill combining
these agents (Ortho-Tri-Cyclen, Ortho Pharmaceutical Corp., Raritan,
NJ) has recently been approved for the treatment of acne in women by
the Food and Drug Administration.
Chronic administration of GnRH agonists suppresses pituitary-ovarian
function, thus inhibiting both ovarian androgen and estrogen secretion.
These agonists have been reported to be effective in the treatment of
hirsutism (296, 297). However, because of the concomitant reduction of
serum estrogen levels and reductions in bone mineral density observed
when GnRH agonists are used alone (298, 299), it is unwise to use these
agents for longer than 6 months. It has been suggested that "add
back" therapy in which estrogen and progestin replacement is
prescribed in conjunction with a GnRH agonist may be effective in
treating androgen excess without the side effects of hypoestrogenemia
(300). This therapy would seem to be useful as an alternative to oral
contraceptives in women who cannot tolerate the high estrogen dose of a
contraceptive pill.
Ketoconazole, a synthetic imidazole antifungal agent, inhibits multiple
steps in the biosynthesis of testosterone (301, 302). In doses of 400
mg per day for 6 months it has been demonstrated to have a moderate
salutary effect on acne and hirsutism. However, side effects are
relatively frequent and include nausea, dry skin, pruritis, and
transaminase elevation (303).
Glucocorticoid therapy can be helpful in those women with
hyperandrogenism from an adrenal source, as adrenal androgens are more
sensitive than cortisol to the suppressive effects of glucocorticoids
(304). Glucocorticoids are the mainstay of treatment of the adrenal
androgen excess of CAH, but appear to be less effective in other forms
of functional adrenal androgen excess (305, 306). Prednisone in doses
of 510 mg at bedtime is usually effective in suppressing adrenal
androgens while posing minimal risk of the sequelae of glucocorticoid
excess such as adrenal atrophy, weight gain, and decreased bone mineral
density. We do not advocate the use of dexamethasone because it is
difficult to prevent long-lasting Cushingoid striae even with doses as
low as 0.5 mg daily. DHEA-sulfate levels are used to indicate the
degree of adrenal suppression; the target is a level of approximately
70 µg/dl. It has been suggested by some that antiandrogen therapy in
the form of cyproterone acetate (307) or spironolactone (306) is at
least as effective as glucocorticoid for the treatment of hirsutism due
to adrenal androgen excess (see below).
A number of therapies are available to interfere with the action of
androgens at the target organ level. This is accomplished by either
inhibiting the binding of testosterone or DHT to the androgen receptor
or by inhibiting the conversion of testosterone to DHT by
5
-reductase. Antiandrogens currently available include cyproterone
acetate, spironolactone, and flutamide, while finasteride is available
as a 5
-reductase inhibitor. These agents can be expected to reduce
the Ferriman-Gallwey score by approximately 1540% in 6 months with
considerable variations between studies and between individuals (308, 309). All of these agents must be used with adequate contraception in
women to prevent the possibility of genital ambiguity in a male fetus.
Antiandrogens act by competitively inhibiting binding of androgen to
the androgen receptor. Ebling et al. (310) examined several
hair parameters to ascertain which might best shed light on the effect
of antiandrogen given in combination with ethinyl estradiol. Shaved
thigh hairs were examined in one hirsute woman. Their diameter
decreased by 33%, length by 50%, and medullation by 90%. In
contrast, the linear growth rate decreased by only 10%. Subsequent
studies confirmed a modest decrease in the diameter of sexual hairs
(311, 312) and indicated that antiandrogens act primarily by decreasing
the density of anagen hairs (312). In response to antiandrogen
treatment a marked (6575%) decrease in the density of anagen hairs
accounted for a decrease in the overall density of plucked hairs by
24%. Thus, these data indicate that antiandrogens reverse hirsutism
primarily by inhibiting the initiation of the growth of sexual hair
follicles, with the result that the remaining PSUs revert toward the
vellus type.
Cyproterone acetate is the prototypic antiandrogen. It was developed as
a potent progestin and was found to be a moderately potent antiandrogen
and a weak glucocorticoid. It acts mainly by competitive inhibition of
the binding of testosterone and DHT to the androgen receptor (313). It
has the added benefit of suppressing ovarian androgen secretion and
subsequently lowering serum testosterone, and, in addition, it may act
to enhance the metabolic clearance of testosterone by inducing hepatic
enzymes. It is an effective treatment for hirsutism and acne
(314, 315, 316). Although not available for use in the United States, it is
widely used throughout Canada, Mexico, and Europe. Because of its
potent progestational activity and its prolonged half-time, it is
administered in a "reverse sequential" manner: cyproterone acetate,
50100 mg per day, from day 5 to 15 of the cycle with ethinyl
estradiol in a dose of 3550 µg per day from day 5 to 26 of the
cycle (315). The dose of cyproterone acetate may be reduced
incrementally at 6- month intervals. Diane (2 mg of cyproterone
acetate with 50 µg of ethinyl estradiol) is effective in maintaining
improvement in milder cases of hirsutism, and Dianette (2 mg of
cyproterone acetate with 35 µg of ethinyl estradiol) (Schering,
Berlin, Germany) is a leading therapy for the treatment of acne in
women. Side effects of cyproterone acetate include irregular uterine
bleeding, nausea, headache, fatigue, weight gain, and decreased libido.
The spironolactone metabolite canrenone binds competitively to the
androgen receptor with 67% the affinity of DHT (317). It also works as
a weak inhibitor of testosterone biosynthesis and a weak progestin,
especially at higher doses. The antiandrogen properties are seen when
the drug is given at high doses of (100200 mg daily, in two divided
doses). Several studies have demonstrated the efficacy of
spironolactone in the treatment of hirsutism and acne (318, 319, 320, 321, 322) and a
potential benefit in pattern alopecia (323). It may be possible to
reduce the maintenance dose after the maximal effect has been achieved.
The side effects of spironolactone tend to be dose-related (308),
possibly because of its structural relationship to progesterone (324).
The most common side effect is menstrual irregularity; thus, it is
often helpful to use an oral contraceptive along with spironolactone to
regulate the menstrual cycles. Other less common side effects of
spironolactone include nausea, dyspepsia, fatigue, and breast
tenderness. Patients should be monitored for hyperkalemia, hypotension,
and liver dysfunction.
Flutamide is a potent nonsteroidal antiandrogen marketed for prostate
cancer. It has no progestational, estrogenic, corticoid,
antigonadotropic, or androgenic activity (325). Flutamide is typically
used at a dose of 125250 mg twice daily with or without the addition
of an oral contraceptive. Its clinical efficacy has been shown to be
similar to spironolactone (320). Trials using flutamide in women with
hirsutism and acne have demonstrated a marked improvement in hirsutism
and complete clearing of acne (326, 327). Flutamide is not extensively
used for the treatment of hirsutism because of its expense and the
possible side effect of hepatocellular toxicity (328). However, it must
be noted that a recent prospective, randomized trial comparing low-dose
flutamide, finasteride, ketoconazole, and combination cyproterone
acetate-ethinyl estradiol demonstrated relative superiority of
flutamide and cyproterone acetate-ethinyl estradiol in the treatment of
hirsutism (329).
Finasteride, a 4-aza-steroid, is an inhibitor of the type 2
5
-reductase that converts testosterone to DHT. Many studies have
demonstrated some degree of efficacy of finasteride in treating
hirsutism (309, 321, 322, 330, 331). It has recently received Food and
Drug Administration approval for the treatment of pattern alopecia in
young men. Kaufman et al. (332) showed that an oral dose of
1 mg daily leads to a gradual 16% increase in scalp hair count and
slowing of the progression of hair loss over 2 yr in most men with
male-pattern hair loss. However, 14% of treated men had no response.
Finasteride at this dosage has been shown to have no effect on
spermatogenesis or semen production in young men (333). This low-dose
finasteride treatment has been shown to decrease both scalp skin and
serum DHT levels (334). Preliminary studies in postmenopausal women
show little benefit of low-dose finasteride treatment on pattern
alopecia (335).
There is considerable current interest in the possible role of
insulin-lowering agents in the therapy of hyperandrogenism because of
the evidence that hyperinsulinemia may play a critical role in the
pathogenesis of the hyperandrogenism of polycystic ovary syndrome
(PCOS), the most common cause of female hyperandrogenism. The insulin
excess produced by resistance to the glucose-metabolic effects of
insulin seems to amplify the androgen response to trophic hormones in
the ovary and adrenal cortex and to cause acanthosis nigricans (336, 337). It is also possible that the insulin-IGF-I system acts in concert
with androgen to stimulate PSU development, as reviewed above.
Several different modalities have been used to lower insulin levels in
PCOS. These include weight loss (338), metformin (339, 340, 341, 342, 343, 344, 345, 346, 347, 348),
thiazolidinediones (349, 350, 351), and D-chiro-inositol (352).
To a greater or lesser degree, all of these insulin-lowering maneuvers
lower plasma androgen levels. The extent to which these effects are
translated into improvement in hirsutism or acne remains to be
determined.
Metformin is a disubstituted biguanide that improves glucose tolerance
usually in association with moderate reductions of serum insulin levels
(353, 354). Although there is modest improvement in glucose disposal
rate with metformin, the primary mechanism of action appears to be in
its effect on reducing hepatic glucose output (355). A number of
studies that examine the effects of metformin in women with PCOS have
been published (339, 340, 341, 342, 343, 344, 345, 346, 347, 348). These studies vary widely in design (dose of
metformin, duration of treatment, methods of assessment of insulin
resistance, etc.). While there is an inconsistent effect of metformin
on carbohydrate metabolism and androgen secretion across these studies,
on balance there does appear to be a modest benefit from metformin
treatment in PCOS, particularly when weight loss can be achieved.
Thiazolidinediones are a class of antidiabetic drugs that improve the
action of insulin in the liver, skeletal muscle, and adipose tissue
(356). The first of these to become available for clinical use was
troglitazone (which has recently been replaced in the market by
rosiglitazone and pioglitazone). In contrast to the effects observed
with metformin, troglitazone has a major impact on glucose disposal
rate, with a modest effect on hepatic glucose output (355). As such,
thiazolidinediones are most appropriately viewed as a true insulin
sensitizing agents. There is a high degree of concordance in the
findings of the published studies in which troglitazone was
administered to women with PCOS (349, 350, 351). Importantly, the metabolic
profile was improved in such a way as to lower cardiovascular risk
factors. Furthermore, troglitazone has also been recently shown to
enhance ovulatory function in PCOS (350). The attenuation of
hyperinsulinemia is associated with improvement of hyperandrogenemia in
obese women with PCOS. The effect on acne will be of particular
interest since this class of agents would seem to have potentially
counterbalancing effects on sebaceous cell function, with suppression
of insulin and androgen levels tending to lower sebum output and direct
PPAR
activation tending to increase it.
 |
XI. Conclusions
|
|---|
Androgens are prerequisites for the growth and differentiation of
sexual hairs and sebaceous glands. However, the mode by which they
interact with other factors to bring about PSU development and PSU
disorders is incompletely understood. During embryogenesis, PSUs
acquire the ability to respond to androgens in distinct ways according
to their pattern of distribution. Homeobox genes are likely involved in
coordinating the interaction of the multiple genes involved in this
differentiation process. The postnatal hair cycle, cycling back and
forth from the growth to the resting phase, recapitulates the embryonic
development of the hair follicle repetitively throughout life. Hair
follicle growth, and possibly sebaceous follicle growth, involve a
close reciprocal interaction between the epithelial and stromal
components. The dermal papilla is likely the source of the growth
signals that regulate the hair cycle. The nature of the growth factors
that it elaborates is unknown. Cell culture methods have begun to yield
insight into some of the specific factors involved in PSU growth and
development, but it has not yet been possible to entirely replicate the
androgen effects in vitro. However, androgens have been
found to interact with PPAR
, and less directly with many other
factors, to stimulate sebocyte differentiation (Fig. 20
). Retinoids are important factors in
PSU development. They not only regulate aspects of embryonic
development through regulation of homeobox genes, but they exert
ongoing effects on the PSU. In sebocytes, RARs appear to mediate the
suppression of growth, while the RXRs appear to stimulate
differentiation via their interaction with PPARs. IGFs and insulin play
important roles in PSU development. IGF-I is essential for hair
follicle growth and sebocyte growth in vitro. Insulin in
high doses substitutes for IGF-I and seems to exert effects on sebocyte
differentiation beyond its effect as an IGF-I surrogate. GH promotes
both sexual hair growth and sebocyte differentiation in response to
androgen, and its effect in the latter regard seems to be direct, not
mediated by IGF-I. Many other hormones, such as glucocorticoids,
estrogen, and thyroid hormone, play roles in PSU growth and
development, but their exact roles remain to be elucidated.

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Figure 20. Model of the interaction of androgen with other
factors important for the growth and differentiation of sebocytes.
|
|
PSU disorders such as hirsutism, acne, and pattern baldness can be
psychologically devastating, and current available treatments with
agents that interfere with androgen action are less than optimal.
Improved understanding of the role of the multiple factors involved in
normal PSU growth and development is necessary to enhance our
comprehension of PSU disorders and to provide new treatment approaches
for these disorders.
 |
Footnotes
|
|---|
Address reprint requests to: Dianne Deplewski, M.D., Department of Pediatrics, University of Chicago Childrens Hospital, 5841 South Maryland Avenue, MC 5053, Chicago, Illinois 60637 USA. E-mail:ddeplews{at}peds.bsd.uchicago.edu
 |
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